M62B44,M60B40 heads & cams, Eaton M112 (now with NOS)

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  • george graves
    replied
    Suck me sideways. This is amazing.

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  • parkerbink
    replied
    Wow!

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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied






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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    I would like to add an oil cooler yes, I'm using -12an line and fittings to get to the remote oil filters and could easily route a cooler in there.

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  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    Originally posted by Mykk540i/6
    All I can do is try it and see if it acts up, if it does I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
    I knew a guy that said he had a big block chevy that built up so much oil pressure it literally blew off spin on oil filters. Except for K&N oil filters, they lasted and stay on. Maybe these filters will stay intact.
    I was about to go the spin on route, but JGood chimed in and warned me about exploding stuff. Id rather stop exploding stuff so Im using the stock housing for now.

    I will be watching your oil situation closely, as im sure you'll probably try to put a cooler in as well.

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  • parkerbink
    replied
    Will do, thanks!

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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    I had no luck with that remote dual filter bracket, I kept getting pinhole leaks in the oil filters. My best guess was cavitation. Another guy using one on his m60 went through the same thing. We both switched back to the factory filter housing.
    All I can do is try it and see if it acts up, if it does I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
    I knew a guy that said he had a big block chevy that built up so much oil pressure it literally blew off spin on oil filters. Except for K&N oil filters, they lasted and stay on. Maybe these filters will stay intact.

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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Originally posted by parkerbink
    Amazing thread. I was in Prescott Valley yesterday. My Parents live there.

    Next time you're in town shoot me a pm, my shop space is in PV.

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  • parkerbink
    replied
    Amazing thread. I was in Prescott Valley yesterday. My Parents live there.

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  • JGood
    replied
    I had no luck with that remote dual filter bracket, I kept getting pinhole leaks in the oil filters. My best guess was cavitation. Another guy using one on his m60 went through the same thing. We both switched back to the factory filter housing.

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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    I ran into some oil canister issues, I wanted an E34 style canister to mount to the engine but I believe my timing donor engine came from a 7 series as the canister was remote mount off the engine and they provisions in timing covers were there to mount an E34 style canister. Plus the oil hoses were totally different between canisters. Instead I opt'd for a universal hot rodders style dual spin on filter set up that somehow amazingly bolted up to provisions already in the block:





    I need to change the 1/2" ID hose over to 3/4" ID to fit the cut oil tubes and put a little flare in the tubes to secure the hoses. I'm thinking steel braided hose, looks good and won't rub through against brackets, alternator, etc..

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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Still piecing together, one bolt at a time:



    Flipped Pulley:



    Alignment:



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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    I'm planning for 8-10psi. Since this is my first boosted engine I'm still learning, but I usually aim for 9:1 dynamic compression usually by way of 11:1+ static compression and big cams.

    With the supercharger, 8psi bumps 8.2:1 dynamic up to 12.38:1 Dynamic, way beyoind pump gas in my experience. however, it's boost and it must behave differently then to treat it like a compression value. I mean guys run more than this on a regular basis.

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  • wworm
    replied
    What kind of PSI are you planning on running/what are your plans for fuel? 8.02:1 should be fine for anything under (very loose numbers here, but I think they're kind of conservative) 12-15psi, as long as you're running at least 93 octane fuel, no?

    Again, I know very little about this shit but I think its really cool

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  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Had a chance to dial in cam timing; Set up true TDC with dial indicator, marked dampner for future ignition timing alignment. Installed aftermarket cam timing blocks and locked cams down.









    Installed degree wheel to dampner, used some scrap aluminum stock bolted to timing cover and marked TDC



    Spun the engine over by hand and marked cam timing events using both 1mm and .1mm valve lift measurements. Then spun it and measured again for consistency.



    Checking cyl#1 intake & exhaust, then cyl#6 to get all four cams. This way I wouldn't need to move the degree wheel since cyl 1&6 are 360 degrees apart from each other. Found that bank1 was 2 degrees retard from bank2, I liked the cam timings for bank2 so I set up TDC with +2 advance and then re-timed bank1 cams with timing blocks. Checked to make sure cam timings from both banks were identical.






    When it was all said and done here's my measured cam specs:

    @.1mm lift:
    Intake opens 12° BTDC / Intake closes 48° ABDC
    Exhaust opens 48° ABDC / Exhaust closes 12° ATDC

    240°/240° duration -108° intake centerline / 108° lobe separation

    @1mm lift:
    Intake opens 2° ATDC / Intake closes 33° ABDC
    Exhaust opens 33° BBDC / Exhaust closes 7° BTDC

    211°/206° Duration - 107.5° Intake centerline / 108.75° lobe separation

    I'm getting the impression the cam has asymetrical lobes and a more agressive intake valve opening ramp compared to exhaust thus the 1mm timing event threw off the ICL & LSA.

    From my understanding when figuring out Dynamic Compression we use advertised cam durations @ .1mm (for reasons unknown to me, you'd think it's not enough valve lift through the lifter for any compression loss) giving this project a DCR of 8.02:1 (at my elevation). A bit higher then I comfortably want to run with the supercharger but I'm gonna send it.
    Last edited by Mykk540i/6; 05-30-2018, 08:48 AM.

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