a/c problem

[Ceeker]

So I check my a/c from both the low and high side and find lots of air in the system. it was pushing out air from the valve until I saw oil and a mist come out which told me finally there is some coolant. I basically bled most of the air out since I don't have a recovery system. I used RED-Tek 12a product avail here; I filled it with a few cans until I got the compressor to cycle on and off. but I didn't get any cold air from the system. Finally I got more coolant into the system where the compressor wouldn't turn off at all. at that point I didn't add anymore and removed the pressure regulator. the pressure was almost in the red so I turned off the a/c

Later today I went for an evening drive and thought I would check the a/c out of curiosity. put the a/c on and the cold air started pumping into the cabin; but this only lasted a 1-2min before it went back to luke warm.

Does anyone know what could be happening?
the clutch seems to engage and disengage quite frequently.

any help would be appreciated. thx.

[Ryann]

How bold of you!:)

If there was pressure in your system it wasn't air, it was refrigerant in the form of gas (unless you're not telling us about something you did before pressure was released from your service ports).

Why were you connecting gauges to your service ports? Was your compressor clutch failing to engage? If so you need to locate and fix your leaks, then use a vacuum pump to pull the system into deep vacuum before you can recharge it and expect it to work properly for any length of time.

[Kershaw]

i've never heard of bleeding the ac system before.

only completely evacuating it.

[Ryann]

i've never heard of bleeding the ac system before.

That's because it's not a real procedure!

[Todd Black 88]

Omg, seriously?
You wont have air in your system if its under pressure. Sounds like you bled the refrigerent GAS out.

[Kershaw]

and let's get our terms right here too....

coolant is not refrigerant! coolant goes through the radiator. refrigerant goes through the ac system!

[Huff]

Listen to Ryann. I say spend the money on some R134 adapters and throw some dye in there to see where your leak (s) are coming from. I'm so sick of messing with r12, freeze12, etc.. Just bite the bullet and get your system on R134. It makes life SO much easier

[Ryann]

^Or better yet recharge with r414b, no compressor oil hassles or high head pressure problems. Either way the leaks need to be fixed and the system needs to be properly pumped down.

[jw 325ic]

or stop being pansies and convert to r134. it will make your life much easier. very simple to do and you can recharge whenever for cheap....

[Huff]

^Or better yet recharge with r414b, no compressor oil hassles or high head pressure problems. Either way the leaks need to be fixed and the system needs to be properly pumped down.

Hmm.. I just read up on it a bit.. Does it use R12 service ports? What weight ratios do you run?

[Ryann]

or stop being pansies and convert to r134. it will make your life much easier.

I beg to differ.

Hmm.. I just read up on it a bit.. Does it use R12 service ports? What weight ratios do you run?

If by r12 service ports you mean the original ports on our cars, yes. Ports are just access points. There is never any reason to change the ports in a system for the purposes of switching refrigerants so long as you have a gauge manifold with hoses that will securely connect to them.

I believe ICOR suggests 80% of the original specified charge by weight. For an ideal charge you should add gas to clear the sight glass under the conditions your system will be expected to run, which may be slightly more or less than 80%.

[Ceeker]

How bold of you!:)

If there was pressure in your system it wasn't air, it was refrigerant in the form of gas (unless you're not telling us about something you did before pressure was released from your service ports).

Why were you connecting gauges to your service ports? Was your compressor clutch failing to engage? If so you need to locate and fix your leaks, then use a vacuum pump to pull the system into deep vacuum before you can recharge it and expect it to work properly for any length of time.

I didn't do anything to the system prior to this procedure; I connected gauges that came with the Red-tec recharge aftermarket kit. the gauge shows how much charge is going into the system to regulate not to over charge it. Also allows you to see the "refrigerant" lol is actually being sucked in. the clutch clicks on and off when the compressor is on.
I will most likely change the condenser since this and the evaporator seem to be the weak link in these system. Shouldn't cost me anymore then 300.00. but I will get it tested with dye just to make sure.

thanks for all the input guys!!- ernie

[moatilliatta]

Do some experimenting with the lines. Do you feel any cold spots in them, If your ac compressor cycles most likely it is due to too much or not enough pressure. If you do go with the r134 route id check and see which condenser you have, You'll have to get the more efficient one that looks like 2 layer's of tube and fins. Your system was low / empty for a reason. Double check for leaks, make sure you have a dye in the stem to help detect them. Ive also came across one parallel flow aftermarket condenser that looks like it will work well though also.

Also depending on production date you may not a have a compressor that like r134. Not sure why but i recon the seals do not like the r134. I have seen them used anyways and work.

Zach

[Ceeker]

I've got a buddy who will pressure test and diagnose for 120.00. fill with nitrogen and dye to see if any leaks are present. that is equivalent to two hours labor. at least I can determine a sure way of knowing. He's got Daracool 12a which is compatible with the R12 system and colder then R134. So I think I am going to go that route with my 3 cars.

[Ryann]

Dry nitrogen is perfect for getting rid of system moisture and finding leaks, but dye is a contaminant. I recommend using liquid leak detector to find leaks externally. Nu-Calgon makes some good fluorescent stuff that comes in a squirt bottle.