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Can a Wire Be Removed From a Connector

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    Can a Wire Be Removed From a Connector

    I'm at the point in diagnosing my buzzing right turn signal that I want to remove the blue\black from terminal 5 of the harness side of C202. Often once these things go in the connector they are there for life. Sometimes not.

    Does anyone know how to disconnect this wire without damage or have a pic of the removed terminal on the wire end would be appreciated.

    TIA
    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
    Alice the Time Capsule
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

    #2
    The simple solution is to clip the wire and inch or two from the connector and insulate the clipped end. Later you can splice the wires back together.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by jlevie View Post
      The simple solution is to clip the wire and inch or two from the connector and insulate the clipped end. Later you can splice the wires back together.
      You race so simple (aka practical) has a different value. I prefer not to cut if it's not essential, but if you are saying this can't be done without destroying something (including my nerves), I'll cut.

      TY
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

      Comment


        #4
        You can buy a tool set for connector pin removal. Sometimes if you simply examine the connector closely you can find the tab you have to push to get the pin out.
        No E30 Club
        Originally posted by MrBurgundy
        Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0 View Post
          You can buy a tool set for connector pin removal. Sometimes if you simply examine the connector closely you can find the tab you have to push to get the pin out.
          I've taken enough apart without special tools, with varying degrees of success and some are definitely easier than others. I also did read about that tool just today but am doing reconnaissance here before I spent much more time upside down under my dash.

          I'll probably just pull the switch and work on it indoors under a good light. I just figured someone here might have actually dismantled one of these and could help map it out.

          The input is appreciated
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

          Comment


            #6
            Generally the tool is just a piece of tubing (more or less) that has an inside diameter the same size as the outer diameter of the pin. Might try looking at a hardware store for some small tubing that could work.

            Comment


              #7
              I use this to remove the pins from connectors. Cost is a $1-$2 and takes about 10sec once you get the hand of it

              Comment


                #8
                all pins can be removed. some of them are much harder than others, especially without the pin removal tools (which are often obscenely expensive).

                and using small screwdrivers on round pins isn't going to work.. you'd need something *much* thinner, and generally, uh, round. :p
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment


                  #9
                  I spent most of a decade on an island with no auto parts stores so am used to MacGyvering even before there WAS a MacGyver. I've got a full collection of jewelers screw drivers and paper clips....and of course a roll of duct tape and a Swiss Army Knife :-)
                  Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                  Alice the Time Capsule
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                  87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The pin construction is visible on RealOEM. Frequently it is just a barb on the male pin that prevents it from being pulled back through the plastic connector. If this barb can be depressed, the pin can be slid back out. I've used metal tubing from hardware or even old ball-point pen refills slid down over the pin to depress the barb.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      metal tubing from hardware
                      This.

                      And if you have a good caliper, you can measure it to a thou or 2. Then get the right ID
                      tubing, and cut away about 150 degrees of it. The remaining 'C' shaped thing works
                      pretty darned well on most circular connectors, AND you can slide it over the back of
                      the wires for the connectors that have to be unlocked from the back.

                      Yes, it's a pain, but once you make the tool and do it once or twice, all of a sudden it's
                      really easy.

                      We do this with mass connectors (176 pins) at work quite frequently, and the
                      'right tools' are a real pain- often the shop- made tool works better and is more durable.

                      hth
                      t
                      now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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