Why did you not use a gasket? You might have had some giant leaks using the black rtv.
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Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View PostWhy did you not use a gasket? You might have had some giant leaks using the black rtv.
The RTV seemed to hold up fine. I've used valve cover gaskets before with no luck - they always leak on me...
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Injectors are working.
Okay - did another compression test. I had only checked cylinder 2 before and it read low around 120 psi. But then I checked all the other cylinders and they all read 30 psi.
I dripped some oil down there to try and get the rings to seal and gave it another try. PSI only went up to 40 psi and the car still won't fire after that attempt.
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Well, looks like I'm pulling my engine again.
I'd love to meet somebody with as much bad luck with their car as me. Holy smokes....
My car has been basically off the road for 2 years now. Hundreds of hours of labor, thousands and thousands of dollars later - It looks mint with everything new from suspension to tranny to engine to sensors, hoses, gaskets, everything. And it just sits in my garage like a dead worthless piece of shit.
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i would at least confirm your at tdc first..I would pull the cap out of way so you can see the timing mark rotate to tdc and pull #1 spark, use an extension in the hole and see if the piston it TDC. If its not you know you have a severe problem.
I didnt see the notes abt low compression which means either timing bent valves or your rings are passing the air. You may want to do a leak down before pulling it to try to minimize what is needed to get it back on the road.
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Originally posted by EyExR View Postpushed it past 6,500 rpm...
Took the head off and brought it to a machine shop. No bent valves but my valve guides were worn so I'm getting it rebuilt. This sucks because I just paid another shop to rebuild my engine but apparently they did not replace my valve guides as promised... I was robbed. I was wondering why I still seemed to burn oil even after a rebuild. Now I know why.
Moral of the story? Do NOT bring your engine to S&S Speed Shop in Queens. They suck!
AND I guess I have to keep my revs below 6500.... But why buy a friggin' chip? lol
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Originally posted by vert_this View Postare u sure ur valves weren't bent? I mean they didn't put new guides in??
S&S Speed Shop never replaced the valve guides so I just had them done...
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Originally posted by EyExR View PostYeah, the head was just rebuilt...
S&S Speed Shop never replaced the valve guides so I just had them done...
These cars are very reliable at least for me and I've had a bunch of them. I also hit the rev limiter from time to time. So no reason why yours should be dead all the time. Just some bad luck I suppose?..
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I remember what I wanted to comment on specifically now - I normally use a small allen key to turn the eccentrics. I didn't figure on one thing though - even though it's small (4mm?), it's actually possible to slightly compress the valve springs if you apply enough pressure while tightening the eccentric bolts.
What happened to me was I put the feeler gauge in, and then held the eccentric tight with the allen key, and tightened the nuts. the feeler gauge was pretty tight when I puleld it out. What had happened was I'd slightly opened the valves while I was adjusting the eccentrics, and a couple of them actually stayed slightly open with the engine cold. It ran like shit until it warmed up, and I ended up readjusting them, which fixed it.
It's a little bit counter intuitive, but the clearance actually increases when the engine warms up. But if it's far enough open you may never get it started.
I ended up buying the special spring loaded tool, but I haven't adjusted them with it yet.
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