Flooded?

[dnguyen1963]

Why did you not use a gasket? You might have had some giant leaks using the black rtv.

[EyExR]

Why did you not use a gasket? You might have had some giant leaks using the black rtv.

The RTV seemed to hold up fine. I've used valve cover gaskets before with no luck - they always leak on me...

[EyExR]

It's gotta be a fuel injector or timing issue... I'm getting perfect pressure to the rail and have good spark. I can't see it being anything else... OR the engine broke internally again....

[EyExR]

can anyone suggest a good noid light?

[EyExR]

Injectors are working.

Okay - did another compression test. I had only checked cylinder 2 before and it read low around 120 psi. But then I checked all the other cylinders and they all read 30 psi.

I dripped some oil down there to try and get the rings to seal and gave it another try. PSI only went up to 40 psi and the car still won't fire after that attempt.

[EyExR]

Well, looks like I'm pulling my engine again.

I'd love to meet somebody with as much bad luck with their car as me. Holy smokes....

My car has been basically off the road for 2 years now. Hundreds of hours of labor, thousands and thousands of dollars later - It looks mint with everything new from suspension to tranny to engine to sensors, hoses, gaskets, everything. And it just sits in my garage like a dead worthless piece of shit.

[vert_this]

i would at least confirm your at tdc first..I would pull the cap out of way so you can see the timing mark rotate to tdc and pull #1 spark, use an extension in the hole and see if the piston it TDC. If its not you know you have a severe problem.

I didnt see the notes abt low compression which means either timing bent valves or your rings are passing the air. You may want to do a leak down before pulling it to try to minimize what is needed to get it back on the road.

[vert_this]

pushed it past 6,500 rpm...

Took the head off and brought it to a machine shop. No bent valves but my valve guides were worn so I'm getting it rebuilt. This sucks because I just paid another shop to rebuild my engine but apparently they did not replace my valve guides as promised... I was robbed. I was wondering why I still seemed to burn oil even after a rebuild. Now I know why.

Moral of the story? Do NOT bring your engine to S&S Speed Shop in Queens. They suck!

AND I guess I have to keep my revs below 6500.... But why buy a friggin' chip? lol

are u sure ur valves weren't bent? I mean they didn't put new guides in??

[EyExR]

are u sure ur valves weren't bent? I mean they didn't put new guides in??

Yeah, the head was just rebuilt...

S&S Speed Shop never replaced the valve guides so I just had them done...

[vert_this]

Yeah, the head was just rebuilt...

S&S Speed Shop never replaced the valve guides so I just had them done...

I'd be looking for a used motor, pull that head and set it aside.

These cars are very reliable at least for me and I've had a bunch of them. I also hit the rev limiter from time to time. So no reason why yours should be dead all the time. Just some bad luck I suppose?..

[EyExR]

Well, I'm going to suck it up once again, bow my head in E30 shame and do the right thing.

Wish me luck

...it's a learning process, right? :)

[EyExR]

I'm hoping I thought of the problem. Perhaps my valves were lashed too tight and the valves are not closing all the way...

Today, I'll check my timing once again then re-gap my valves...

Jeez I hope this works!

[nando]

gap them a little loose (.11mm instead of .1mm). won't hurt anything.

[EyExR]

gap them a little loose (.11mm instead of .1mm). won't hurt anything.

Thanks Chris!

I don't think I was allowing the feeler gauge to drag slightly when I tightened the eccentrics. We'll see....

[nando]

I remember what I wanted to comment on specifically now - I normally use a small allen key to turn the eccentrics. I didn't figure on one thing though - even though it's small (4mm?), it's actually possible to slightly compress the valve springs if you apply enough pressure while tightening the eccentric bolts.

What happened to me was I put the feeler gauge in, and then held the eccentric tight with the allen key, and tightened the nuts. the feeler gauge was pretty tight when I puleld it out. What had happened was I'd slightly opened the valves while I was adjusting the eccentrics, and a couple of them actually stayed slightly open with the engine cold. It ran like shit until it warmed up, and I ended up readjusting them, which fixed it.

It's a little bit counter intuitive, but the clearance actually increases when the engine warms up. But if it's far enough open you may never get it started.

I ended up buying the special spring loaded tool, but I haven't adjusted them with it yet.