random ass stalling

[chuckybob]

my car stalls when it gets warm. the strange part is that once it begins to stall, opening the throttle lowers the idle speed. at closed throttle, it idles perfectly fine. if the car stalls completely or the ignition is turned off, it will only crank until about 10 minutes later, when it can run again. i loosened the icv adjusting screw and it seemed to prolong the stalling, but it hasnt stopped. any ideas what could be causing this?

[Digitalwave]

Kinda sounds like a bad vacuum leak to me. Does your AFM intake boot look to be in good shape?

[chuckybob]

no vacuum hoses are leaking. idle is rock solid at 1000rpm until the engine warms up. and even then, its very consistent when its not stalling.

[Digitalwave]

The engine doesn't have to have a lopy idle to have a vacuum leak.

[bimmer8604]

sounds vacuum-ey.

Are you just looking at the hoses? or actually touching, pinching, feeling, squeezing, carressing, oh woops, got a bit sexual right there.

Do a through check, not just pop the hood and look.

Kyle

[asubimmer]

vacuum

[lordofthewaters]

Get a can of wd-40 or even ether and spray it over your vaccuum hoses, if you have a leak you'll know it when you spray over it.

[arsevader]

my car stalls when it gets warm. the strange part is that once it begins to stall, opening the throttle lowers the idle speed. at closed throttle, it idles perfectly fine. if the car stalls completely or the ignition is turned off, it will only crank until about 10 minutes later, when it can run again. i loosened the icv adjusting screw and it seemed to prolong the stalling, but it hasnt stopped. any ideas what could be causing this?

My vote is for electrical. Vacum leaks are usually more pronounced when cold.

Could be a bad trace in the AFM or a faulty TPS.

[RobertK]

I was going to say faulty AFM since you can reproduce the same symptoms on a good running E30 by disconnecting the AFM harness while it's running.

Get a can of wd-40 or even ether and spray it over your vaccuum hoses, if you have a leak you'll know it when you spray over it.

This works even better with throttle body / carb cleaner.

[turnofftheradio]

I was thinking fuel pump or regulator? enough press to idle, but not enough to accelerate.

[AndrewBird]

Sounds like it is running too lean. I.E. - Vacuum leak. Maybe your throttle body gasket or intake manifold gasket? Somewhere after the AFM.

Could also be the AFM like others said. Jordan was having a problem with his car at WOT where the contacts for the AFM were worn to the point of no longer making electrical contact. I'll try to find his post for you.

Edit: Here is the link - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...&highlight=AFM

[chuckybob]

I was going to say faulty AFM since you can reproduce the same symptoms on a good running E30 by disconnecting the AFM harness while it's running.

ive left my afm unplugged before on accident, this is much different then that was. ill re-check it for vacuum leaks and check the afm contacts and resistance tomorrow.

[chuckybob]

went over every black vaccum hose and the oil seals with the wd-40, no vacuum leaks to be found. pulled the afm to test the resistance through the flap range, it dips about halfway down, and the afm also only shows 200ohm resistance at 60 deg F (should be 2200@68F), but kencopperwheat has very similar afm test results.

his thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=63031


are these normal behaviours of an m10 afm?

[bimmer8604]

My vote is for electrical. Vacum leaks are usually more pronounced when cold.

Could be a bad trace in the AFM or a faulty TPS.

i dont think it would be the TPS, as e30's use just a switch, either on or off.

you could try changing the AFM with a known good one and see if that works.

Kyle

[chuckybob]

the afm traces look good and the sensor flap isnt binding at all. can someone with a known good m10 afm check the resistance and temperature values to compare?