Does this car support the stomp test? If it does not have the 173 ecu, how do you pull codes?
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With a diag system. If stock the car has a 153 DME, which requires a diag system.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL -
Ok. Do you recommend a brand and or place to get one? Is there a way to jump pins or anything like that to get it to flash codes? With the figid temps in the North East, my car will not idle and will stall when I hit the gas. Once it warmed up, I was able to drive it. Thanks.Last edited by clydesdale; 01-23-2014, 05:51 AM.Comment
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You need an OBD1 reader that understands the BMW codes. A dealer of course will have the tool and I've seen a SnapOn Solus work. Dunno what else there might be that would work.
The odds are that the engine has intake leaks which will have a greater effect when the engine is cold. A smoke test of the intake will find them. Other causes are possible, but intake leaks must be dealt with first.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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When it warmed up it was fine, but the CEL light is on. It has never run so terribly. If I breathe on the gas, it stalls. It actually would not even respond to the throttle. But, if I turned it on and immediately hit the gas, it would rev up and be ok. If i let it idle, it would stumble too much to even breath on the throttle. Will those Peake code readers work?Comment
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it's probably not worth getting a code reader for a Motronic 1.1 (or even 1.3) DME. The level of diagnostics is pretty crude, it's not going to tell you much other than O2 readings being out of range. It can't detect bad sensors, misfires, injectors, etc. I think it only has like 10 errors it can store and they're almost all emissions related.Comment
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Ok. I did notice, the last time I cleaned it, the ICV had blowby in it and maybe that gunk is freezing getting stuck. When I disconnected the electrical harness, it made no difference. Once the car was warm, it was fine. Any other thoughts?Comment
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air leak. throttle switch.
tnow, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george gravesComment
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That practically screams intake leaks.Originally posted by clydesdale View PostThe car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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Nothing to do with ICV? I did not see any obvious rips or things disconnected. But, I will look again.Comment
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Isn't it usually the air intake bellows or hoses? I've never needed a smoke test. I usually just inspect the hoses and listen for air leaks. I would think a smoke machine would be pretty costly.Comment
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Replace the 153 with a 173 and stomp test?
It worked on my 87, I found the intake air temp sensor defective.Comment
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The complete list of possible causes of an intake leak is:Originally posted by clydesdale View Post
Intake boot
Throttle body gasket
ICV hoses & connections
Brake booster, hoses, and connections
Crank case breather hose
Evaporative control hoses, valve, and expansion tank
Fuel pressure regulator & hose
Injector seals
Valve cover gaskets & bungs
Oil filler cap
Dip stick o-rings
Oil return tube o-rings
Pan gasket or oil level sensor gasket
While leaks in some of those can be found by inspection or by spraying carb
cleaner on suspect areas, not finding leaks that way doesn't eliminate the
possibility. Only a smoke test will really work.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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A smoke tester would be a nice tool to have. Any idea where I can get one and how much do they often run? I have had to track down many an air leak and some are easy and some are a PITA. With it being 10 degrees and no garage, I am not in the mood to go on a scavenger hunt.Comment
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