10$ to whoever solves my problem!

[E30Kills]

So my 87 325is recently smells very strongly of gas in the oil, and after driving there is white smoke/vapor coming out of the oil cap which I suspect is the fuel boiling off. Also, the car idles rough and initially would idle around 650 but since this has happened it idles around 500. The car usually starts right up, but sometimes (randomly it seems) it takes a bit to start it. It also smells strongly of fuel at the exhaust and even inside the cabin. The oil light stays on for about 1-3 seconds after the car has been started. Also the CEL was on briefly for only 1 day but I cannot stomp test it because I have a 153 DME not a 173. The CEL has since gone away.

10$ via paypal to whoever has the right answer!

[LJ851]

Sticking injector(s)

[dnguyen1963]

Sounds like you owe Lorin $10.

[E30Kills]

Sticking injector(s)

How exactly does one fix sticking injectors? Should I just buy new ones?

[Nesset]

Soak em' in Seafoam or just buy new ones would be what I would do...

[pandaboo911]

Send them to MEPEH

[ST1G]

How exactly does one fix sticking injectors? Should I just buy new ones?

Correct. I would do this.

[LJ851]

How exactly does one fix sticking injectors? Should I just buy new ones?

You could use a fuel injector cleaner that you pour in the fuel tank- $

You could have your injectors refurbished- $$

You could buy new injectors- $$$

[E30Kills]

Is it likely that I've done any permanent damage to my engine? Its only been run 150 miles since the rebuild. I run 5w30 right now should I run something heavier in the future?

[ELVA164]

Probably not, damage-wise. Not necessarily heavier, but pay attention to ZDDP content. You should make sure your oil has at least 1000ppm ZDDP. ZDDP additives aren't super effective, either.

Also, extended use of fuel injector cleaner can eat away at the plastic around the pintles and cause them to leak (more, in this case).

[ForcedFirebird]

Stuck injector is easy to diagnose. Pull the valve cover to gain access to the fuel rail bolts, lift up the fuel rail with injectors still attached to it, plug the vent hose coming from the TB and attempt to start it (may start but will ruin bad with the inj holes open). Alternately you can jump the fuel pump relay and if the inj is stuck, it will spray.

Also I have seen rich condition from a bad TPS. If the idle switch in the TPS is not working, the ECU thinks your foot is on the gas even though the throttle is closed. With enough fuel to smell up the oil, then it's more likely to be an injector.

Probably not, damage-wise. Not necessarily heavier, but pay attention to ZDDP content. You should make sure your oil has at least 1000ppm ZDDP. ZDDP additives aren't super effective, either.

Also, extended use of fuel injector cleaner can eat away at the plastic around the pintles and cause them to leak (more, in this case).

I actually like running even higher ZDDP content. Oils back when the e30 was new had closer to and above 1300ppm. Mobil 1 0-40 has 1100 PPM Mobil 1 15-50 has 1300. Seeing that 1100ppm is approved by BMW, it has low enough zinc to keep the modern cats safe, therefore low enough ZDDP for me not to put it in an m20.

Additives do work, but they are expensive for the most part. Buying cheap oil and additive isn't as economical as buying oil with enough ZDDP. Most treatments for 5qt run about $12, where WalMart sells 5qt jugs of M1 for about $26.

In recent years I have had to deal with this in flat tappet American pushrod engines, the m20 is a similar principal.

[E30Kills]

Alright guys will update ASAP let y'all know.

[15Michaeljoseph]

also look into diesel oils for higher zddp and such, plus they're really cheap


--Mike

[LJ851]

Alright guys will update ASAP let y'all know.

?

[barbierij]

We had a super running rich problem with low idle and it ran like crap. Turned out someone drove it with the oil cap missing.