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    Electrical Battery Issue!!!!

    Sup guys,

    So I've been having this electrical problem with her for almost a year already and I've taken her to 2 mechanics and no one can find out the issues. So once I fully charge the battery (Autozone) the car turns on and runs for maybe about an hour until it completely dies. No power whatsoever. Completely dead. I thought it could be an alternator issue but its not. Thought it could be the alarm system so I took it out and still the issue continues. Any idea guys?

    Thanks

    Manny

    #2
    The FAQ/DIY section is for staff-approved instructional posts only. Please do not ask questions there. If you don't know where to ask your question, post it in General Technical and we'll move it to the appropriate subforum if necessary. Thanks in advance.
    Originally posted by kronus
    would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

    Comment


      #3
      You only get a hour from a fully charged battery, how was the alternator tested?
      Does the battery light come on with ignition and go off when the car starts??
      I had a battery 12.6 volts off, while car running 12.9 /13volts but once I turn anything on that demands power like aftermarket sound or head lights the battery would drain dead.
      Changed regulator brushes bumped it 13.7 14.2 depending on rpm.
      No issues after that

      Comment


        #4
        Correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember reading somewhere that in the early cars (pre-1986?) a damaged SI/instrument board would prevent the battery from being charged.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
          Correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember reading somewhere that in the early cars (pre-1986?) a damaged SI/instrument board would prevent the battery from being charged.
          The charging system works with the battery bulb on instrument board so I believe you are correct.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by slum dog View Post
            The charging system works with the battery bulb on instrument board so I believe you are correct.
            I'm having the same exact problem with my 84 318 that has been M20 swapped. I inspected the wiring and everything looks to be in working order.

            I noticed a day ago after charging the battery up, starting the car, and letting it run, that the tach is dead. I obviously have an issue with the instrument cluster and wonder if my electrical/no-charge issue is related.

            OP please share in progress you make with this issue. Thanks.

            07 Designio E63 AMG / 1984 318i (M20Swapped)

            Comment


              #7
              yah i would be curious to know how the alternator was tested. Should be 12V -ish when not running, and over 13v when running.

              If the SI board or whatever is playing silly buggers you should be able to bypass it wire the alternator straight to the battery, you just need to put any old bulb (NOT LED) where the bulb goes, as its the exciter.

              An auto electrician worth anything should have been able to diagnose this issue in about 5mins.

              Comment


                #8
                How do you test alternator voltage output with the car not running :)
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                  How do you test alternator voltage output with the car not running :)
                  You can...just get 0V that's all.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
                    You can...just get 0V that's all.
                    Well...that's not really a test is it :)
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
                      You can...just get 0V that's all.
                      LOLLLL that's rich.
                      "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                      85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                      88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                      89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                      91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by MannyCooks View Post
                        Sup guys,

                        So I've been having this electrical problem with her for almost a year already and I've taken her to 2 mechanics and no one can find out the issues. So once I fully charge the battery (Autozone) the car turns on and runs for maybe about an hour until it completely dies. No power whatsoever. Completely dead. I thought it could be an alternator issue but its not. Thought it could be the alarm system so I took it out and still the issue continues. Any idea guys?

                        Thanks

                        Manny
                        What is the year and model? How did you check the alternator? if you have a pre 86 cluster, a faulty battery bulb or bad contacts on the instrument cluster could cause the alternator to not charge the efficiently.
                        "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                        85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                        88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                        89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                        91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                          How do you test alternator voltage output with the car not running :)
                          Well my buddy has a home built rig set up, basically its just a bench vise modified with adjustable brackets so most alternators bolt on.
                          It then runs on a belt to a air compressor motor which turns at 850 rpm and has you press down on the foot pedal it picks up rpm to around 2500

                          I also seen those old toppies us a heavy duty drill.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by be34st View Post
                            I'm having the same exact problem with my 84 318 that has been M20 swapped. I inspected the wiring and everything looks to be in working order.

                            I noticed a day ago after charging the battery up, starting the car, and letting it run, that the tach is dead. I obviously have an issue with the instrument cluster and wonder if my electrical/no-charge issue is related.

                            OP please share in progress you make with this issue. Thanks.

                            Originally posted by e30davie View Post

                            If the SI board or whatever is playing silly buggers you should be able to bypass it wire the alternator straight to the battery, you just need to put any old bulb (NOT LED) where the bulb goes, as its the exciter.
                            You could do what he says

                            Comment

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