If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Two big wins on the project front today. I've finally (I think) figured out the plating, and I've also found an amazing plastic refinisher.
First, the playing. There are a lot of temperatures, etc involved here. There's a reason the handbook is thick. First I was getting a really milky zinc plate - that was because I was going straight from the degreasing solution to the plating tank. They don't explicitly list rinsing between the two as a step, so I wasn't doing it. As a result my parts were flat and cloudy, and the gold oxidized layer tended to flake off.
For example, I turned these....
...into these...
But there wasn't any shine or iridescence to them.
I can go into more detail if people want, but now my steps are (after getting all obvious gunk off- oil, dirt, etc)...
Part in Muriatic Acid (MA) bath until old zinc is eaten off
Part in water/baking soda to stop the MA reaction
Rinse in Distilled Water (DW)
5 mins (at least) in Degreasing solution (purchased from Caswell) between 140-200 degrees F. I'm using a crock pot for this.
Water break test. DW in spray bottle. Spray part. If it beads, go back to Dereaser, if it spreads over the part, on to next step
Rinse in DW (second DW tank)
Plating - here's my setup....
I'm plating for ~30 mins, depending on the part and how well the plating takes. I have to calculate the surface area of each part, then multiply by 0.14 to get the right amperage. I'm doing this manually now but a spreadsheet will be necessary for the smaller fasteners.
Once I'm satisfied with the plate, I dry it off using clean shop towels (I may remove this step later, we'll see), then rinse in DW (third DW tank)
Then immerse in Yellow Chromate solution for 30-45 seconds at 80 degrees. When it comes out it has changed from silver to gold in color.
Then rinse in DW again (DW tank 4) and hang to air dry in front of a fan.
The bracket above is for the starter. After a few mins it started to shine and show the iridescent spectrum like new OEM parts do, only now it has a thicker zinc plate.
Excited to do more! I just need more shop towels and distilled water.
I've used muriatic acid to clean the rust out of fuel tanks with great success. This build is incredible. Your attention to detail and your documentation is by far the best I've ever seen. Keep the posts and pics coming please!
Funny you should ask. I just tried out Muriatic Acid...it's my new favorite thing. Basically I've been polishing the old zinc plating instead of the metal underneath. That's fine for the ones I've posted above, I'll just re color them, but going forward I'm doing acid.
If the part is degreased, you can just drop it in the acid, it hisses like an Alka-Seltzer, and rust, zinc plating (yellow and the silver base), and basically everything else, comes off in a few seconds. I've been waiting until it stops hissing, then dunking it in water/baking soda to neutralize the acid.
Then you can polish the underlying steel a bit if you want, then re-plate in new zinc, and re-yellow.
I tried the acid out on some parts I plan to replace and thus hadn't cleaned.
This bolt went in zinc plated with the yellow dingy and fading.
Leave a comment: