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The 5 lug swap truth thread!!!!!!!!!!

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    As a reminder to never go 5-lug.

    As far as brake bias is concerned... Did you increase the front bias? Also, excuse my ignorance, but does the E30 come with a proportioning valve from the factory?
    Originally posted by FunfGan
    My car is so racecar it makes peoples head's hurt. Literally.
    Originally posted by lambo
    This is r3v, your logic is useless. We went race-prepped, factory-built, street cars for the price of a loaf of bread.

    Comment


      hehe i would agree knowing what i know.. "when your neighbor's beard is on fire, you put yours in water" right?

      so, i decreased the front bias (turned down pressure) because it has too much piston ratio to the rear brakes. many people here have red flagged this, but i've found that it works pretty well.
      No more e30s for me.
      88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
      88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
      91 BMW 325i [sold]
      86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
      http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs

      Comment


        currently I am swapping mine using the following parts: e36 325i front spindles and brakes, e30 springs and top hats, e36 325i rear struts, 318ti steering rack with e30 outer tie rods, rear 318ti bearings hubs and brakes, e30 brake lines. can anyone say for sure if this is all going to work well and handle well with the right alignment?
        LEVINE AUTOMOTIVE

        Comment


          I can tell you for sure that it will not work. The rear will work, not particularly well, but if you like a setup that performs inferior to the stock 325i setup do it.

          You will get the parts to bolt up in the front, but it will handle as though you ran over a curb head on at 35 mph shoving the wheels backwards into the wells. It will feel unstable at best going in a straight line and like you are about to fall on your face when turning.

          Six years ago I put this setup together, drove around the block and it felt so horrible that I pulled back into the driveway, cursed a bunch and then ordered the proper late model e36 m3 parts.

          The rear sucked so I bought mcoupe stuff, granted most cannot afford this but I got the proper e30 m3 parts for my other car and for what you are paying to do poorly, it would be worth it to buy the hubs, bearings, rotors, dust shields, ebrake pins and caliper carriers new. You can get the e32 calipers and rebuild them cheap enough.

          A lot of people think that it is too hard to source the m3 parts but that is bullshit. You can put the whole rear together for under $550 without having to change anything beyond what is bolted to the stock trailing arm.

          If you think you can't afford it, then why the heck are you going this route in the first place??
          sigpic
          Gun control means using both hands
          Sex, Drugs, Rock 'n roll. Pick two.

          Comment


            For the front, I was given the spindles and control arms for free. Thats why I'm using them, however, if it is that much a difference in geometry then I will get a set of M3 spindles. I just didn't figure it making that big a difference, but then again i'm doing this kind of a swap for the first time. Can I still use any e36 struts and control arms though? they are off a 95' 325i. And as for the rear, how different will the 318Ti hub have in offset from the stock e30. Because all I would be changing is the hubs and brakes...along with bushings and mounts of course...?
            LEVINE AUTOMOTIVE

            Comment


              You can use it but it is a downgrade from what you have. Sell it on craigslist or eBay. It is not worth your time, you can pay now or pay a lot more later.

              The e36 m3 spindles are required as are the control arms. That means you need e36 m3 brakes. If you do that and get the 318ti rear brake downgrade your brake bias will be almost completely to the front.

              The 318ti rear hubs stick out quite a bit further, I cannot recall exactly how much but I think it is around 15mm. I know that may not sound like much, but that is a wider track without the geometry to support it.

              I had this with 8.5 inch wheels with a plus 35 offset and it felt less stable thank stock 6.6 inch wheels.

              The same wheels with the mcoupe hardware with about the same overall track but the trailing arms are very different having shorter hubs but a thicker bearing housing. It feels pretty well planted however the wheels still rub a bit. I will be switching the wheels to the acs type 1's 17x8 et38 that are being delivered Friday. I should finally have the setup I want.

              Ive been at this for years and it is just getting right.

              If this car is your daily please don't do it. If this is an extra car that you can keep in the garage when not working then hey, no substitute for learning from your own errors just like I have/am.
              sigpic
              Gun control means using both hands
              Sex, Drugs, Rock 'n roll. Pick two.

              Comment


                m3

                without m3 stuff at the front the wheels will rub against the back os the fender and you won't be able to drive the car, mine has the normal spindles but has the control arms and busching from the ///M, it's not perfect but it works...

                Comment


                  I am currently tracking down M3 spindles, brakes and arms. As for the rear, from what I've been reading in other places from reliable sources I'm thinking of doing the Z3 6cyl. hubs and brakes. They are larger than the stock E30 but same wheel bearing. Eventually I may go Mcoupe trailing arms but for now I'll try the cheaper way and see how it does. Any suggestions for the factory e30 brake bias valve? aftermarket? larger oem?.......................^Viva Portugal!
                  LEVINE AUTOMOTIVE

                  Comment


                    I wish I would have seen this a year ago..FML!
                    90 Merc Gaelendewagen
                    91 Alpine White M-technic 4-door
                    91 calypsorot M-technic S52 coupe
                    91 Silver M-technic 2 Cabrio
                    84 Alpina B6 #25/250
                    86 Zino BBS coupe
                    86 Schwartz 535i
                    88 Alpineweis M3
                    88 Alpineweis M3

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Dagamus(NM) View Post
                      Yup, those are correct. Strange that you have that much of a problem.

                      Look on the bright side, you can now run these:













                      Those be euro m-coupe rotors. I wanted the ones with the M\\\ logo on them, but I could not justify an extra $200 over what I paid for bling. These are the ATE rotors and I got a good deal on them from rmeuropean.com

                      :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up:
                      90 Merc Gaelendewagen
                      91 Alpine White M-technic 4-door
                      91 calypsorot M-technic S52 coupe
                      91 Silver M-technic 2 Cabrio
                      84 Alpina B6 #25/250
                      86 Zino BBS coupe
                      86 Schwartz 535i
                      88 Alpineweis M3
                      88 Alpineweis M3

                      Comment


                        I'm having so much trouble with my setup! ;( any help pleaseeee

                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=244934

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                          Any idea what I should budget if I want to do the full e30 m3 swap?

                          I just wanna use my 17" style 42s from my e39!!!!!

                          Comment


                            If you just want to run those wheels then you should take them and get them filled and drilled. Hub centering rings and call it good.

                            It used to be the rear that was impossible to go e30 m3, now it is the front struts that cost a ton. Soon none of it will be around.

                            The rear caliper carrier bracket, the front strut tube, and the piece that goes from the strut tube to the control arm are the rare parts. If you can source those six pieces then you can do the rest for a couple hundred bucks depending on rotor/pad/shock choices.

                            Proper wheels are just as hard to get for a five lugged e30 as they are for a four lug. The AC Schnitzer type 1's I bought recently went to the refinisher. They were able to fix the oxidation and repaint after trying the bends in three of them :(

                            $721 for the wheels and another $600 to refinish them. Not bad all in all. I think I should have no rubbing now.
                            sigpic
                            Gun control means using both hands
                            Sex, Drugs, Rock 'n roll. Pick two.

                            Comment


                              Just picked up '98 M3 front set up and 318ti rear set up. Still wondering if I should do the swap or not.
                              Originally posted by dvck
                              I'm going to say this nicely; go fuck yourself.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by itskingsteelo View Post
                                Just picked up '98 M3 front set up and 318ti rear set up. Still wondering if I should do the swap or not.
                                I have had that exact setup on my car since July 2007. Daily driven! You will be happy.

                                "BMW Style 32 Poster-Child"
                                HTTP://WWW.CLAVINZERO.COM/e30-5-lug
                                **(My Guide to E36 M3/Z3 1.9L 5-lug Swap)
                                **

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