This is a good solution that has been around a long time in various forms. It keeps correct E30 geometry is cost effective. Also the non-M brakes are a bit lighter too :)
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Another 5lug option? | Now for the rear too!
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Very true, and you can also run more wheel choices :)
Can you ask why the spindle is split in two? I have always wondered why the spindle is not the full length of the bearing and the nut was not just on the end. Obviously the nut would need to extend to the threaded portion of the original spindle with a slightly smaller diameter than the original bearing surface to fit under the new bearing sleeve.-Nick
M42 on VEMS
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What rotors and calipers is a direct fit?Projects Hartge,Alpina & AC Schnitzer Builds.http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=280601
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227993
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=289362
DSC04926 by Raul Salinas, on Flickr
DSC03413 by Raul Salinas, on Flickr
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Originally posted by wazzu70 View PostVery true, and you can also run more wheel choices :)
Can you ask why the spindle is split in two? I have always wondered why the spindle is not the full length of the bearing and the nut was not just on the end. Obviously the nut would need to extend to the threaded portion of the original spindle with a slightly smaller diameter than the original bearing surface to fit under the new bearing sleeve.
Originally posted by e30m3s54turbo View PostWhat rotors and calipers is a direct fit?
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Originally posted by 330SMG View PostFinally a non Frankenstein solution. Where do I get it?
One question , What keeps the nut from coming loose? Is the drivers side left hand thread?
Actually i think the double-nut design should to the trick, ie you i think it will hold itself, but i will ask on that. About the right-hind - do not know, but it surely fits without any modifications.
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Originally posted by Max399 View PostThats because it is the best design in terms of tightening the bearing. Well easiest. And it will not damage the bearing while installing. If you would use a full length spindle, then when tightening the nut, it would rub into the bearing, where as in this design, it will rub in the second part of the nut, and will do no damage to the bearing.
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostI still don't understand the point of the bolt and washer that is threaded in after the adapter. Doesn't seem like it actually does anything.
I think this is how it's meant to work: the inner half of the race slides on. The outer half threads onto the stub axle somewhat tightly, but doesn't get cranked down, then the bolt is threaded into it. The bolt presses up on the stub axle and locks the outer half of the race.
If there wasn't such a bolt, I'm not sure how you'd lock the outer half of the race in place.
Definitely a bit weird.
Does the dust cap fit over the bolt arrangement?
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