Another 5lug option? | Now for the rear too!
Collapse
X
-
I agree that solution is a bit weird, especially considering the fact that the factory torque spec for the front nut is a little over 200 ft/lbs and the bearing needs that torque in order to be proper and not wobble about at speed...I really don't see how a smaller bolt tightening against the nut and spindle end will suffice.I think this is how it's meant to work: the inner half of the race slides on. The outer half threads onto the stub axle somewhat tightly, but doesn't get cranked down, then the bolt is threaded into it. The bolt presses up on the stub axle and locks the outer half of the race.
If there wasn't such a bolt, I'm not sure how you'd lock the outer half of the race in place.
Definitely a bit weird.
Does the dust cap fit over the bolt arrangement?Leave a comment:
-
-
I think this is how it's meant to work: the inner half of the race slides on. The outer half threads onto the stub axle somewhat tightly, but doesn't get cranked down, then the bolt is threaded into it. The bolt presses up on the stub axle and locks the outer half of the race.
If there wasn't such a bolt, I'm not sure how you'd lock the outer half of the race in place.
Definitely a bit weird.
Does the dust cap fit over the bolt arrangement?Leave a comment:
-
How about you send me a set and i will test them to assure the wider R3V community that they can stand up to abuse?Leave a comment:
-
Got them on my hands now, so regarding the whats holding it - you can bend the washer just like you would with a normal bearing install.Leave a comment:
-
I still don't understand the point of the bolt and washer that is threaded in after the adapter. Doesn't seem like it actually does anything.Thats because it is the best design in terms of tightening the bearing. Well easiest. And it will not damage the bearing while installing. If you would use a full length spindle, then when tightening the nut, it would rub into the bearing, where as in this design, it will rub in the second part of the nut, and will do no damage to the bearing.Leave a comment:
-
-
PM'ed.
Actually i think the double-nut design should to the trick, ie you i think it will hold itself, but i will ask on that. About the right-hind - do not know, but it surely fits without any modifications.Leave a comment:
-
Finally a non Frankenstein solution. Where do I get it?
One question , What keeps the nut from coming loose? Is the drivers side left hand thread?Leave a comment:
-
-
Thats because it is the best design in terms of tightening the bearing. Well easiest. And it will not damage the bearing while installing. If you would use a full length spindle, then when tightening the nut, it would rub into the bearing, where as in this design, it will rub in the second part of the nut, and will do no damage to the bearing.Very true, and you can also run more wheel choices :)
Can you ask why the spindle is split in two? I have always wondered why the spindle is not the full length of the bearing and the nut was not just on the end. Obviously the nut would need to extend to the threaded portion of the original spindle with a slightly smaller diameter than the original bearing surface to fit under the new bearing sleeve.
You can use any non-M rotors and calipers. Ie any E36 or E46 brakes are a direct fit.Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: