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Got my 17's on finally this week.. with a little fender rolling out back the 225/45r17's work ok.. i did hear a rub back there once when hitting a hard bump.. but i have since rolled them a tad more and hopefully all is ok.
Heres the setup:
Front:
-M Roadster lower front arms (same as 96-up M3)
-M Roadster struts
-E36 325 spindles and brakes
-UUC camber/caster plates
-Factory E30 m3 offset CA bushings
Rear:
-Z3 hubs and brakes mounted up to my factory E30 TA's
other stuff:
-all stainless braided brake hoses
-Limited slip diff
-H&R sport springs, E30 fitment
-bigger swaybars (suspension techniques??)
-Borbet 17x8's with 225/45R17's
-Ireland urethane rear subframe bushings
-M-z3 shifter
-multi colored body (repaint soon hopefully)
I set the UUC strut hats to give me less caster, they offer .75 degree in either direction and with factory upper mounts i was at 8 degrees and change. I figured bringing the top of the strut foward would help to center the wheel more in the wheel opening. it did help, although just slightly.
Also Before doing the Strut mounts my front tires were rubbing the back of the wheelwell when turning. now with the reduced caster the 225/45's work just fine up front.
Next week i'll put it up on the alignment rack.. I just did the UUC strut hats yesterday, set them at max. camber and drover her home like that, this car is jerky with the camber maxed out.. What camber settings are most guys running on the street?
By the way.. how do i post my images right onto the message? i cannot cut and copy onto the message paneLast edited by bimmer630; 06-13-2009, 12:10 PM.
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BIMMER630...
Love the wheels. Great choice. I wonder about the rolling diameter being your rubbing issue... those are quite a bit taller than stock, by about an inch overall. What's the wheel offset?
Which Z3 hubs/brakes did you use in the rear: 1.9L (4 cylinder) or 2.5L+ (6 cylinder)??
To my understanding ADDING caster (kicking wheel forward) would be what helped, not subtracting it. Someone chime in if I am wrong here, but last I checked when we swap to the Offset Control Arm Bushings we are adding caster.
"BMW Style 32 Poster-Child"
HTTP://WWW.CLAVINZERO.COM/e30-5-lug
**(My Guide to E36 M3/Z3 1.9L 5-lug Swap)**
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well doing the offset bushings kicks the outer balljoint foward, therfore increasing caster, so if im keeping that lower geometry the same and pivoting the top of the strut Foward, wouldnt that be taking caster away? with sliding the top of the strut foward, it brings the whole strut tube into a more straight up position, almost just pushing the hub foward and maintaining the factory caster before doing offset bushings,CA's.. right?
or am i totally backwards in my thinking?
ClavinZero, thanks.. yeah the wheel and tire package is def. taller than needed, they are only rubbing on a small bulge inside the wheelwell which i was able to pound flat with a little hammering.. and it didnt affect the outer sheetmetal at all... im about to go drive it now to see if that helped. and the rear setup is simply Z3 6 cylinder parts.. wheel mounting flange sticks way out past the brake rotor
im not sure what the offset is on these rims.. i didnt even check it, but they are E36 fitment.. maybe a tad less offset than stock. they were on my friends e36 m3.. they look wayyy better on my car
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Originally posted by clavinZERO View PostBIMMER630...
To my understanding ADDING caster (kicking wheel forward) would be what helped, not subtracting it. Someone chime in if I am wrong here, but last I checked when we swap to the Offset Control Arm Bushings we are adding caster.
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Originally posted by bimmer630 View Postyeah but thats adding caster by moving the lower part of the suspension, this is above the axle centerline so therefore going by your theory, it would take away that caster gained by the offset bushings if you tilted the strut foward, no?
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Aptyp, what are you gonna use up front on your car to center the wheels? you still have the stock upper mounts? I tried my strut hats in the centered position and there was only an inch between the rear of the tire and the wheel opening. with the caster set to the foward postion i had almost 2 inches, maybe closer to 1-1/2 between the tire and wheel opening. not a whole lot but still suprised me. i can now look at my front wheels and not be pissed off that my swap was a waste of time..
now if only somebody would build a CAB that brought the control arm even closer to the framerail i'd be set
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