TL;DR: I'm considering modifying the rear subframe to use the Z3M trailing arms, but maintain the "correct"offset at the wheel. AKA: Running 20mm offset wheels instead of 40mm offset wheels. I'm 90% certain I saw a thread where someone did this or thought about trying it, but I can't find it now, so I would love links to people who have tried this or done it, big questions being: Axles and spring/shock location. I think keeping the Z3M axles would be best, IF they have enough plunge depth to handle -20mm. I'm open to other clever ways of shaving off 20mm.
Longer story:
My motivation is pretty simple: I want robust components for my turbo M20, but also I want a classic looking 16" wheel, and there's basically no options that have a 40mm offset. I have figured out I can get a -37mm offset with a custom BBS build which should be close enough, but spending $4k+ on wheels vs $1k for "Style 5s" leaves a margin of about $3k to modify the subframe or trailing arms. I'd rather put that money into the Z3M components than some of the other rear 5-lug swap options.
My main motivator for the Z3M rear stuff rather than the "normal" Z3 (I think it's just the 4-banger that has the direct swap parts?) is to get the reinforced parts and bigger brakes with OEM quality/part numbers. I would like to use as many direct-fit OEM parts as possible for my build log (so I can easily source replacement parts) and having as few modified parts as possible is compelling. In the long and short of it: Having only to modify the subframe, which is a very durable part that is also easy to source and cheap is preferable to customizing other components or using non-OEM BBK stuff. Plus the subframe is getting reinforcement and cambers/toe adjusters anyways, so it might not be that much extra work to move the TA mounting points 20mm inboard. Moving spring perches 20mm inboard is probably not out of the question, either, since my chassis is going on a rotisserie for a ton of under-body rust repair. Shock perches are a bit of a different story simply based on the design of the chassis, but also not out of the question, I suppose.
Anyways - thoughts or direct hands-on experience would be great. I would love to avoid buying thousands of dollars worth of parts just to see how much of a PITA it will be, if someone else has already traveled this path and can tell me if it's worth it or not.
As I type all this out and I'm being 100% honest with myself: Probably the 4-banger Z3 swap makes the most sense. Replacing wheel bearings more often is not really a big deal, and I'm not a track rat, so while the car will see track time, it won't be a ton, in the grand scheme of things. I guess the only real concern is brake size and proportioning. Also since this is a direct, easy, and cheaper swap I can always try it out first and see if I like it, before getting more into the frankenstien mods.
Longer story:
My motivation is pretty simple: I want robust components for my turbo M20, but also I want a classic looking 16" wheel, and there's basically no options that have a 40mm offset. I have figured out I can get a -37mm offset with a custom BBS build which should be close enough, but spending $4k+ on wheels vs $1k for "Style 5s" leaves a margin of about $3k to modify the subframe or trailing arms. I'd rather put that money into the Z3M components than some of the other rear 5-lug swap options.
My main motivator for the Z3M rear stuff rather than the "normal" Z3 (I think it's just the 4-banger that has the direct swap parts?) is to get the reinforced parts and bigger brakes with OEM quality/part numbers. I would like to use as many direct-fit OEM parts as possible for my build log (so I can easily source replacement parts) and having as few modified parts as possible is compelling. In the long and short of it: Having only to modify the subframe, which is a very durable part that is also easy to source and cheap is preferable to customizing other components or using non-OEM BBK stuff. Plus the subframe is getting reinforcement and cambers/toe adjusters anyways, so it might not be that much extra work to move the TA mounting points 20mm inboard. Moving spring perches 20mm inboard is probably not out of the question, either, since my chassis is going on a rotisserie for a ton of under-body rust repair. Shock perches are a bit of a different story simply based on the design of the chassis, but also not out of the question, I suppose.
Anyways - thoughts or direct hands-on experience would be great. I would love to avoid buying thousands of dollars worth of parts just to see how much of a PITA it will be, if someone else has already traveled this path and can tell me if it's worth it or not.
As I type all this out and I'm being 100% honest with myself: Probably the 4-banger Z3 swap makes the most sense. Replacing wheel bearings more often is not really a big deal, and I'm not a track rat, so while the car will see track time, it won't be a ton, in the grand scheme of things. I guess the only real concern is brake size and proportioning. Also since this is a direct, easy, and cheaper swap I can always try it out first and see if I like it, before getting more into the frankenstien mods.
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