Rear subframe bushing removal 101.

[Digitalwave]

how difficult is it to get the rear subframe out of the car, i think i might change to ss lines and replace whatever bushings i can find in Urethane

Took me about an hour to drop mine. It's really simple stuff.

[NC325iC]

diff must come out?

[finch]

diff is attached to the subframe if you remove the subframe the diff will have to come out aswell.

[mspiegle]

I just did my rear subframe bushings...

I used a recip. saw to cut the center part of one of the bushings, then realized that the metal sleeve part had to come out too. I used a press to try the other side, but all it did was press the center part out (leaving the sleeve in place).

I drove to 5 different places today and finally found someone who could try pressing the sleeves out. He said he had one hell of a time figuring it out, but once he got the "trick", the other side took 5 minutes.

I took the subframe home and the new bushings from bmwbushings.com slid right in. Tomorrow the rear-end of the car will be put back together.

[Simon S]

fishing for help..
chipping away at rear subframe bushing replacement.

subframe removed. Driver’s side slid off with leverage from wooden hammer handle. Passenger side was a total bitch. Tried prying it off with every tool in inventory.. ended up buying some two-jaw gear-pullers and persuaded it off with that.


(it did feel cool to get entire rear suspension assembly removed)


however.. both internal metal subframe bushing collars remained on support bolts.






Would rather not pop bolts out w/ BFH (after rear seat removal) unless necessary. (gear puller doesn’t get much ‘grab area’ on top stopper due to limited space.. although it’s tempting to grind ‘puller claws’ slimmer)

Could I try heating them up with a torch and twisting them free with vice-grips?

Advice on how to remove subframe bushing collars appreciated.

(edit: fixed pic links)

[arsevader]

Would rather not pop bolts out w/ BFH (after rear seat removal) unless necessary.

Why? You really should have removed the bolts before attempting to drop the subframe.

The bolts are knurled and therefore grab the inside of those collars. My advice is to hammer those things out first then see if the collars are still stuck. There is a small piece of the collar that inserts into the body, this is the part that most people find breaks off and gets stuck.

PS That's a nice shiny new gas tank.

[Simon S]

The bolts are knurled and therefore grab the inside of those collars.
PS That's a nice shiny new gas tank.

knurled? damn. Well, that explains much to me. Thank you for feedback. I'll thread a nut on there and get out the BFH then.

re tank: yeah, PO installed it since 'water had sat on top and rusted it bad'. It's like the body is nearly rust-free.. mostly things bolted to it have 'the cancer'.. which i'll take care of upon re-assembly.

[arsevader]

knurled? damn. Well, that explains much to me. Thank you for feedback. I'll thread a nut on there and get out the BFH then.

re tank: yeah, PO installed it since 'water had sat on top and rusted it bad'. It's like the body is nearly rust-free.. mostly things bolted to it have 'the cancer'.. which i'll take care of upon re-assembly.

Yeah there is no hex head on the other end. Remove the rear seat and you'll see a rubber plug like thing. Remove it and cover with a towel or something. Then get to work hammering.

When you reinstall, jack up the frame with the new bushings installed and then hammer the bolts through from above.

[Mike B.]

I'm having the same problem with my collars. One has already cracked and the other isn't budging. Any tips for removal would be appreciated.

[arsevader]

I'm having the same problem with my collars. One has already cracked and the other isn't budging. Any tips for removal would be appreciated.

You can use an air chisel to remove the pieces of the collar left in the body.

[Mike B.]

Thanks for the tip.

I assume I should work in the area between the body and the top of the collar, correct?

[Simon S]

removed foam plugs:





hammer time:








was able to remove stubborn 'collar' pieces by taping with hammer in one direction ~1/8" - then back in other direction. Back and forth. In effect 'wiggling' them out. Luckily, nothing broke off in body.

[Simon S]

Took guidance from MarkH via this thread.

assembled:
1) 1/2" threaded rod
2) 1/2" Coupler nuts
1) 2-1/2” male to male pipe connector
1) 2-1/2” pipe cap
1) 1-1/4” pipe cap
an assortment of washers



drilled 1/2" holes in pipe caps
had to make due with a cordless drill which required drilling a series of holes, each one bigger then the next. (starting with: 3/16", 5/16", 13/32" and ending with 1/2" drill bits)


i have two subframes - one is from my car and another came with a purchased LSD. One from car is pretty rusty. Subframe bushings were quite deteriorated. Other subframe had been de-greased, media blasted, and painted. Its bushings were in better condition, but they were coming out for IE units since the nicer subframe was to be installed on my car.


started on the rusty subframe (for practice) and discovered rubber pieces were so far gone, that they could be worked out with a screwdriver and bare hands.



then went to the repainted subframe with the 'press tool'
i ground casting slag from the 1-1/4" cap



the male to male pipe connector began to mar the subframe, so it's direction was swapped.



great. came out no prob.


spent time cleaning up remaining torn rubber and rust




it was at this point that i realized that i'd wasted a lot of time. It was not worth cleaning up since it became apparent that some of the OEM bushing 'assembly' remained in the subframe. (IE poly unit didn't fit)


this was discouraging. The top side of the subframe bushing piece had an 'interior lip' and the bottom side had an 'external flange'.


so then i got out a dremel tool and cut off external flange





the reason for cutting the flange off was so that the puller tool could be used. The 1-1/4" cap was too small but luckily, a 2" washer had enough grab on the 'internal lip'.



now we're talkin !


groves on the IE bushings now made sense (had initially thought they were for lubricant or something)


remaining carnage:




whatta bitch ! Glad it's friday night 'cause i'm ready to DRINK now ! :nice:


.

[mspiegle]

Thanks for the pics! I ended up dropping my subframe off at a machine shop to have the bushings removed for $40. I have to do the same project again on a different car, so i'll definately be using some of your ideas

[NC325iC]

alright ive got a question, ill probly be doin this within the next week or two depending on when i buy the bushings i was wondering what else to replace while ive got everything out, ill probly do the CSB and im gonna do TAs as well, should i do diff bushing? im doin the middle brake lines too anything else i should go ahead and knock off the old list