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WTF?! i just found somethingwierd on my subframe...

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    #16
    but where should i pry? we couldn't find a good point by the bushings and if you pry from anywhere else the underbody will get bent... right?

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      #17
      You may need to use a 2x4 or plywood on the underbody to pry against. This will allow you to torque on the prybar without placing too much stress on too small of an area of the undercarriage.
      Patrick Henry

      1989 325iC build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316880


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        #18
        okay sounds good i'll give that a try

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          #19
          Wiggle it. Just a little bit. Why don't you wiggle it. Just a little bit.

          Originally posted by Matt-B
          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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            #20
            I have never knocked the bolts up when removing a subframe? You just have to make sure it drops evenly on both sides..

            Maybe a dumb question, but is everything else unbolted?
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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              #21
              incorrect

              get a suitable lag bolt (i used m16 as metric is easily available here) thread it in a few times to the hole in the subframe bush (im asuming you will replace the subframe bushes)

              Get a rod of somesort that will fit through the hole without damaging the splines on the chassis and belt the lag bolt and that should knock the subframe down.

              have some bricks close under the subframe arm so you dont knock it oo hard and send everything flying.

              The fuel pump wiring on a early model is cable tied to the drivers side toe tag on the subframe so make sure you undo those before you try to fully drop it down.
              RIP 84 323i coupe 5spd w/ 14psi
              89' 318i

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                #22
                Originally posted by Gruelius View Post
                incorrect

                get a suitable lag bolt (i used m16 as metric is easily available here) thread it in a few times to the hole in the subframe bush (im asuming you will replace the subframe bushes)

                Get a rod of somesort that will fit through the hole without damaging the splines on the chassis and belt the lag bolt and that should knock the subframe down.

                have some bricks close under the subframe arm so you dont knock it oo hard and send everything flying.

                The fuel pump wiring on a early model is cable tied to the drivers side toe tag on the subframe so make sure you undo those before you try to fully drop it down.

                mine's a late model. good idea! i'll try that

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                  #23
                  Screw in a 5/8" bolt from below, and stick in a foot long 1/2" bar (all-thread or rebar is easy to get) from above. Make certain that the small sledge doesn't break the windows when you swing.

                  If you use a regular bolt instead of a lag screw, you might cut a few grooves into it so that it looks a little like a tap. You want to thread it into the soft bushing core, not break up the core.

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                    #24
                    i took an air chisel to the bushing until it dropped out... of course, replacing the bushing is required after this sort of work...


                    Full Build Thread Here

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                      #25
                      FINALLY got it out today using hydraulics... that thing was seriously stuck in there...

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                        #26
                        Yea i used to 5/8 lag screw for my subframe drop.

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