One-person Brake Bleeder

[Rob@UUC]

Rob, awesome, the information is appreciated (and the heads up on a second bleed after a day or so of use). The Motive PB looks like the correct tool for the job, and cost effective, too.

Now here's something else. My (swapped) car has a remote reservoir with low pressure lines and connectors to the MC. Will the PB exert too much pressure into my setup?

Too much pressure? Definitely not... in operation, you pump it up to about 20psi (there's a gauge on the bottle). 20psi is practically nothing in terms of the hydraulic system, just enough to push fluid through. Remember that the primary hydraulic system in most BMWs exerts as much as 1200psi in normal operation.

[Massive Lee]

Pumping 20psi will make sure that the plastic connector at the clutch MC (which is loosely inserted in a rubber grommet and can pop simply by pulling on it) will pop up, releasing the content of the reservoir and fluid bottle onto the carpet. Not fun to have to remove a full quart of brake fluid from your precious carpet.

If one needs more than 10psi, there's an obvious problem with the rubber lines being clogged as 5psi is enough to push fluid.

[CabrioPunk]

Brake Meisters: set us straight then. How do we properly and safely bleed brakes/change fluid?

[markseven]

Hi all,

Griot's has a one-person brake bleeder that seems to be the perfect solution to bleeding brakes. No damage to the MS from the pedal traveling too far, no air added to the system via the traditional bleeder that attaches to the reservoir:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/one-person+brake+bleeder.do?sortby=ourPicks

Too good to be true? Does anyone have one / used one?

Your thoughts?

TIA,
Mark

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One-Person Brake Bleeder

The Finest One-Person Brake Bleeder Eliminates The Call Of "Honey, Can You Come Out To The Garage And Pump The Brakes Again?"

Bleeding your brakes can be a simple operation if you have the right tools. This One-Person Brake Bleeder is marvelous. Hook it up to your air tank or compressor, depress the lever on top (a Venturi effect is created), open the bleed screw just a hair and the air and old fluid will be drawn out. Simple as that. Use it to bleed brakes and hydraulic clutch lines or to suck old brake fluid out of the reservoir before you get started. (This is what I do before I bleed the brakes so I can start pulling fresh fluid immediately.) The white "catch tank" enables you to drain up to 33 ounces (1 liter). More than enough for any brake bleeding job. It has a wide base and the air inlet on the handle is positioned at an angle that allows the unit to sit flat on the floor when an air hose is attached so it doesn't tip over. Includes clear tubing that allows you to see the air bubbles and dirty brake fluid being drawn out. The rubber bleeder fitting creates a tight seal to keep air out. Eliminates having your spouse pump the brakes at 1 a.m. A clean, simple and quick way to bleed brakes! Imported.

[jeffnhiscars]

I like that but your link isnt working

[markseven]

I like that but your link isnt working

Fixed and thank you.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

i have the motive pressure bleeder like what Rob@uuc posted, honestly its fantastic, its make bleeding the brakes a 15-20 minute job at the most its pretty much fools proof, you fill the bottle with a litter of fluid, connect the little cap thing and pump the thing up, then you crack the bleeder on the caliper, its also great because you don't need an air compressor or another person to do

[petrolhead]

Pumping 20psi will make sure that the plastic connector at the clutch MC (which is loosely inserted in a rubber grommet and can pop simply by pulling on it) will pop up, releasing the content of the reservoir and fluid bottle onto the carpet. Not fun to have to remove a full quart of brake fluid from your precious carpet.

If one needs more than 10psi, there's an obvious problem with the rubber lines being clogged as 5psi is enough to push fluid.

I have no idea what 10 psi is but 1 bar pressure is absolutely highest pressure one should use. Brake fluid reservoirs start giving up after that. When using a pressure bleeder (by this I mean vacuum tools excluded-) one should make sure the reservoir is absolutely full when starting work, and that the hose (or what ever it is that connects to reservoir) is free of bubbles. Otherwise you'll be pushig air through brake lines.

.......................

That's what mechanics use where I live.

[kronus]

I use one of those hand-pump pressure bleeders, but modified to accept a compressor hose. It's actually a very easy mod, and we get very consistent results. I typically put 10-15psi in the chamber.

Another thing that makes the process very easy is one-way nipples, like http://www.speedbleeder.com/.

[ForcedFirebird]

Since my reply in the second post, we got one of these...

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-6830.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=MIT6830&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u&gclid=CJ6GyJn3mLcCFSNo7Aod-VIACg

Put some tees in it, added some hose and multiple wheels can be bled at once. Not only is it a one man job, but all four wheels can be bled at the same time :)

[vpilarrt]

I have no idea what 10 psi is but 1 bar pressure is absolutely highest pressure one should use. Brake fluid reservoirs start giving up after that. When using a pressure bleeder (by this I mean vacuum tools excluded-) one should make sure the reservoir is absolutely full when starting work, and that the hose (or what ever it is that connects to reservoir) is free of bubbles. Otherwise you'll be pushig air through brake lines.

1 bar = 1 atmosphere = 14.7 psi

If I'm just bleeding my brakes after a part change (not doing a full flush) I don't put any brake fluid in my pressure bleeder (I use the Motive one). The MC ports are near the bottom of the reservoir and as long as you keep them covered with fluid you will not introduce air into the system. I've done this many times and have never had a problem.