New rear adjustable Camber/Toe design.

[Holland]

I have been running these for quite a while. While mostly street and mountain driving, they work very well and have yet to come loose. Definitely, definitely, definitely be sure they are not crooked before tightening down.

[F34R]

Yo, F34R. When it's time to adjust these on your brother's car, if you want to drive up to Ithaca, we can do it at my place. The lift makes life so much better.

I have two lifts, thanks though. My concern was for track adjustments on the fly. Not pertaining to my Brother, just over all.

[plain325]

Anyone know when they will be back in stock?

[AndrewBird]

As far as keeping the bolts from backing out, why not cross drill the bolt head and wire it in place. Should eliminate any problems.

[SkiFree]

Anyone know when they will be back in stock?

It's going to be a little while, estimating around a month. Won't have this problem again as the production is changing to a much more efficient setup (the design is not changing).

[brent5631]

I noticed when me and a friend both put this style in that the poly bushings he was using did not have a long enough metal sleeve to properly torque the bolts. We ended both using factory TA bushings so the bolt torqued down on the metal sleeve. I think that a lot of the loosening problems could be prevented by correct bolt torques. But what do I know.

I am running this style for a couple months now and like it. The alignment tech had no problems getting it set.

[plain325]

It's going to be a little while, estimating around a month. Won't have this problem again as the production is changing to a much more efficient setup (the design is not changing).

Figures, right when i need them.

[plain325]

Any ETA for these parts?

[bimmerboy4444]

i installed thes on my car last summer and thay worked grate loosened off alitel once but nothing after that tip for adjusting toe jack the back up hock a cargo strap to the rear shocks and tap the tier you are adjusting forward then pull it back out again to the desired spot. camber just ues a big ass pry bar between the sub frame and trailing arm

[86325LSD]

please come back in stock....please!!!

[SkiFree]

Obviously the month estimate has come and gone. Getting this resolved as quickly as I can. Not going to quote ETA's until I have something substantial.

Sorry for the elongated delay.

[CoClimber]

SkiFree, please contact me. My plates let go a second time. Fortunately, this time not on a track but at an autocross. I have a few ideas that may make them much safer.

Yes, they were tight and, yes, they were lined up properly. I'm not sure how this happened but I am reluctant to track the car until I get this resolved.

[jlevie]

See post #37 for an explanation of what is going on.

[CoClimber]

Hi Jim. I'm afraid you are right. I checked these before the autocross season started and have only driven the car at autocrosses (I trailer the car). This means that after only a few miles my right toe plate let go, effectively sending my car out of control. I'd like to know how you secure your cam plates because I think I will have to go that route.

[jlevie]

My car doesn't have the serrated plates. It has the older eccentric disc adjusters with hex head bolts and nuts. I soon got into the habit of tightening the outboard adjusters (the inside were never a problem) after every practice session or race. But that was of no help when an adjuster let go in a race. If you think it was "interesting" at an auto cross, try a 25 minute race where an adjuster let go in the first couple of laps! And still be competitive...

The fasteners for those are grade 8, but a portion of the threads are cut away of the nut side eccentric. After stripping the threads in an attempt to solve the problem I realized that the nut side eccentric could be deleted. I replaced the fasteners with aircraft 12 point fasteners, which are much stronger, silver soldering the bolt side eccentric to the bolt.

12 point fasteners are a tighter fit on a socket than hex head fasteners and have more socket engagement area. To prevent the bolt from rotating I made a jackscrew like assembly that is welded to the subframe and locks the bolt head in place. Problem solved!