New rear adjustable Camber/Toe design.

[CoClimber]

Jim, thanks for the details. Any chance you have a photo of the locking assembly?

I think I would rather have the eccentric adjusters let go than these. If the bolt gets loose on mine, the toe adjustment can instantly change. At the last autocross, the rear end stepped out so badly that I locked up the brakes and slowly headed for the exit. The previous time the toe bolt let go, I had just left pit lane at Watkins Glen so I was probably only going ~70 into turn 2. I was able to control the car but just barely.

I wonder if my problem is that I run race poly bushings that may be grabbing the bolt more than a rubber bushing. I don't know but I don't feel the car is safe until this is resolved. This is very frustrating because the championship is on the line and I can't afford to have the car down for a few weeks.

[e304me]

I have had the problem from various manufactures of poly bushings that the inner sleeve is not long enough.

[jlevie]

Jim, thanks for the details. Any chance you have a photo of the locking assembly?

I don't have any pictures of the lockers mounted on the car. But here they are.

I think I would rather have the eccentric adjusters let go than these. If the bolt gets loose on mine, the toe adjustment can instantly change. At the last autocross, the rear end stepped out so badly that I locked up the brakes and slowly headed for the exit. The previous time the toe bolt let go, I had just left pit lane at Watkins Glen so I was probably only going ~70 into turn 2. I was able to control the car but just barely.

The result of a toe adjuster loosening for either type is the same. That trailing arm end will move forward (toe in) or backward (toe out) to the extents of the slot. The result will be un-commanded direction changes as the car accelerates or decelerates. The driver can compensate with counter steer, but it certainly isn't fun.

I wonder if my problem is that I run race poly bushings that may be grabbing the bolt more than a rubber bushing. I don't know but I don't feel the car is safe until this is resolved. This is very frustrating because the championship is on the line and I can't afford to have the car down for a few weeks.

The inner sleeves might not be quite long enough, but I tried OE bushing and had the same thing happen. For now you should be able to get by by checking the adjusters after every session.

[SkiFree]

Good morning Doug, Jeremy should be emailing you shortly. I'll add the response here later.

[LowR3V'in]

Has anything changed since these first came out?
Still have toe letting go issues?

[CoClimber]

They improved the design by putting side rails on the plates. This will stop the outer plate from rotating, which will help when setting them. You still have the problem of having a hard time tweaking an adjustment: when you loosen the bolt, the plates can jump. The big problem of the bolt being able to rotate still exists, which is why I will be cutting mine off before I track my car again. That's my big project before the season starts this year.

[LowR3V'in]

That's too bad.
I was thinking of getting these :(

[JohnH]

Why dont they just permanently weld the bolt to the plate. That way the bolt wont turn because of the bushes being out of line and you only need one spanner to adjust them.

Ditch the bushes and replace them with some spherical bearings that can realign themselves to the misalignment of the bolts.

[SkiFree]

Well, I thought it would be pretty self evident. While spherical bearings are nice, in many cases they are not class legal. We've done them a number of times when legality permits, however in popular classes like Pro3 or Spec E30 going spherical is not so legal.

As for the welding of the bolt, it certainly would be a nice thing to do. However, a preference like that is something left up to the installer as preferences to vary (and since your in there with a welder anyways, it's an easy preference to implement).

[JohnH]

I,m pleased to see that Jim Levie had already come up with the welding bolt to locking plate solution. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...4&postcount=13

[SkiFree]

Different variants of a similar effect have been done for a couple decades for those who simply sit down and think about it. Jim is simply the latest person to have taken proactive common-sense steps, the only difference is he is active on the forums whereas the majority of the shops who tinker simply don’t take the time to post.

[LowR3V'in]

once I fabricated and installed bolt locks on the toe adjusters the problem went away. And I know of one other person that solved it in a similar manner.

The serrated plate adjusters look to be an improvement over the eccentric adjusters. But I am of the opinion that a means of locking the bolts is needed for a complete solution.

Do you have any pictures of what you did?
I thought just a locking nut on the end with allot of lock tight would be
enough?

[36brua]

Do you have any pictures of what you did?
I thought just a locking nut on the end with allot of lock tight would be
enough?

chk these links

Rear Toe Adjuster Locks
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227914
jlevie
http://www.spece30.com/forum/10-stee...-adjuster-lock

[grk325]

Why to use castlenated nuts with cotters pin

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[MINIz guy]

Bumping up this old thread.

I am thinking of getting these plates for my car since my toe is so off. I am worried about the bolts loosening though. What do you guys thinking about these Nord-lock washers to secure everything in place?