stripped rotor bolt

[AndrewBird]

I will add that that bolt should only be tightened FINGER TIGHT and no more. As other have said, all it does is keep the rotor from moving until you put the wheel on. It doesn't need to be torqued down.

[TimbyMaTombo]

I got it out with a combination of drilling it and slotting it again. Kinda tore up the rotor, but it has a groove around the edge and needs to be replaced anyway...

Thanks everyone!

[rpob5t]

When rusted in, I often will hammer a larger Torx into it and use a small battery impact to pull them - if that fails, use Jim's advice.



I keep them in stock, just for when customers like you come in. I hate trying to line up the rotor/wheel when using the OEM lug bolts. They are less than $2 each - you guys can't really be that cheap.

I think what he's getting at is that (or at least this is my impression) is that since they only hold the rotor to the hub you shouldn't put a torque on the bolt.... At least that's how I do it I load it up with anti-seize and spin it with an allen socket (no ratchet) until just before it's finger tight...

[Smelser]

TIL
but, why is it there then? haha

also items like that are there to aid in the production of vehicles. then people get worried when it doesnt stay for life on the vehicle.

[ForcedFirebird]

I think what he's getting at is that (or at least this is my impression) is that since they only hold the rotor to the hub you shouldn't put a torque on the bolt.... At least that's how I do it I load it up with anti-seize and spin it with an allen socket (no ratchet) until just before it's finger tight...

I wasn't talking about how tight the bolt is, they will often rust in over time. I was talking about how people leave them out.