I will add that that bolt should only be tightened FINGER TIGHT and no more. As other have said, all it does is keep the rotor from moving until you put the wheel on. It doesn't need to be torqued down.
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stripped rotor bolt
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostWhen rusted in, I often will hammer a larger Torx into it and use a small battery impact to pull them - if that fails, use Jim's advice.
I keep them in stock, just for when customers like you come in. I hate trying to line up the rotor/wheel when using the OEM lug bolts. They are less than $2 each - you guys can't really be that cheap.Greg 1987 325is (fairly far from stock at this point)
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Originally posted by RUFFLZTIL
but, why is it there then? haha
sigpic1984 318i Total conversion to a DIRT race car.
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Originally posted by rpob5t View PostI think what he's getting at is that (or at least this is my impression) is that since they only hold the rotor to the hub you shouldn't put a torque on the bolt.... At least that's how I do it I load it up with anti-seize and spin it with an allen socket (no ratchet) until just before it's finger tight...
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