Lollipop Shifted Wheels Forward

[MR 325]

I would imagine you are not running an ET:20 offset wheel with that tire size. I believe the offset of my ESMs is placing a role in the rubbing because the stock bottlecaps which are relatively similar in size (there worn down, ESMs are brand new rubber) don't seem have any issues.

There's something else up with your suspension that's making the wheels sit that far forward. That's a LOT more than offset bushings will do. Are you sure your car has the correct control arms installed? My wheels are ET25 but I have run them at ET18 in the past without issue.

Here's the first pic I found that clearly shows how the wheel SHOULD sit with offset bushings. This was of course during the time my car was being painted, lol.

[GunMetalGrey]

Yours does seem really far forward...
I just put a set of the TreeHouse CAB's in last spring because racecar and I did notice the extra caster caused the wheels to rub a bit approaching full lock.
I run a 225/45/16 on a 16x8 et25.
I think you have a bit of something else going on, are they installed backwards? lol

[Todd Black 88]

Are you running 96+ e36 m3 control arms?

That is way to far forward. Something else is wrong.

[einstein57]

Perhaps these would work for you

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...Control%20Arms

[Zacharilla]

I know this is an old thread, but what was your solution to this problem? Were your CAB's backwards, wrong control arms...

I have just experienced the same problem and this was the closest thread to a solution!

[Madhatter]

215/45R17 with ET20 wheels and spacers taking them out to ET5, M3 offset bushes. No rubbing on the front anywhere. Rubs the guard at the top. My wheel doesn't sit anywhere near as far forward as that. As said above, something weird for this to happen.

[THEhomelessONE]

I think you'd want to use whichever e36 control arm that comes with the offset bushings standard. Pretty sure the 95 m3 is the one you want, not sure about the non-m e36 arms.

Maybe PO installed e36 arms that were meant to use centered bushings? Also, castor plate will do nothing in relation to wheel placement.

[MR 325]

I think you'd want to use whichever e36 control arm that comes with the offset bushings standard. Pretty sure the 95 m3 is the one you want, not sure about the non-m e36 arms.

Maybe PO installed e36 arms that were meant to use centered bushings? Also, castor plate will do nothing in relation to wheel placement.

The 95 M3 control arm has the same geometry as the E30 control arm. There would be no point in installing it.

[Northern]

Funny this thread resurfaced. I have the same problem on one side of my car, and I'm hoping it is a bent control arm (literally the only thing I can think of that makes sense)

The wheel sticks out like 10mm more on this side as well.

Relevant info:
16x8 effectively ET0
225/45R16 Falken FK452
Offset CABs
GE coils/Koni Sport/GC Race plates






RHS fits fine, no wubwub surprisingly. I just bought these wheels and tires because they were a dirt cheap replacement for my old faux-staggered RZ's (3/4 curbed, bent, etc) which were 5% diameter undersize.

New LHS Control arm on the way from blunt.

[Northern]

I installed a new lemforder control arm from blunt, and it didn't change anything.

I'm contemplating getting THR CABs to get rid of the noname poly m3 CABs I have now(which appear fine), but I'd rather not spam money at my problem.

Other than that, I have no idea why that wheel sits so far forward and out.

[JGood]

Treehouse sells a 'centered' lollipop now. Stock geometry, but a much smaller/stiffer part.

[Northern]

Did an e36 rack swap with a solid steering guibo this weekend, also have changed:
New Lemforder tie rods
New Lemforer control arms
THR eyeball CABs
zeroed front toe

Wheels still in much different locations left to right (left further fwd and out, still like the pictures). I'm at a loss, unless the car is tweaked (no accidents) or the subframe is messed up (It appears fine)
Not much wrong with it other than only the left wheel rubbing the front of the wheelwell at full lock, and with a spacer it rubs the fender lip up front.

[MR 325]

What makes you 100% certain it's never been in any accident? Anything is possible.

Also, have you ruled out a bent strut housing?

[Andy.B]

So I have the same problem. Driver side wheel sticks slightly farther out than passenger side wheel. I didn't notice until I got it repainted with new fenders/valance, and installed coilovers. I just attributed it to the aftermarket fenders being uneven, but apparently this is a thing?

M3 offset cabs in stock lollipops, GE coilovers on 1" shortened housings, newish lemforder control arms, stock strut mounts. The car tracks straight and doesn't pull at all.

[Northern]

What makes you 100% certain it's never been in any accident? Anything is possible.

Also, have you ruled out a bent strut housing?

Just matching original vins on everything, with the sealant at the top of the fender not being broken. I've had pretty much every panel off on the front end now and there's nothing that would hint at any accident damage.

So I'm fairly confident it has not been in an accident.

Bent strut housing was suggested to me already, but I have a hard time buying it. I don't see how that would affect how far forward the wheel sits when the control arm and the point that essentially locates the spindle/hub/wheel doesn't change. Also, I've swapped from stock inserts to bilsteins to konis and I've never encountered any issues installing or removing inserts.

I may get to the point that I swap the left housing out to check anyway, but I'm going to swap the subframe first (part of the swap plan)

I'm just going to give up for now. I'll just run the wheels without spacers and deal with it for the summer.