rear hardline fittings question

[Cyrix2k]

He linked to an ISO/Bubble flare union, why would you want double flares going into your bubble flare union

I think you're right, it's been a while since I've done my lines. @Duct-tape, I *highly* recommend using "cunifer" brake like (the copper alloy stuff). It's MUCH easier to work with and won't rot out. I used this line and it's the shit

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKE7DU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you need a flaring tool, this one works well but it's tedious. I use ATF for lube while flaring and it seems to help.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PMZMU/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And lastly, these are the fittings I used. They're standard for the BMW e30.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002V06X2Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you replace the rear lines, I also suggest picking up some "crows feet" wrenches. Those lines are damn near impossible to access with the subframe in.

[noid]

I appreciate ALL this. way more than I expected.

Since I'm replacing every inch of brake line on the car, I'll probably go with a more standard fitting.

Do bubble flares all around, you will have to do them at the master cylinder anyways, no reason to have mis-matched flares.

There is nothing "non-standard" about a bubble flare, it has been used and continues to be used on all BMW's and many European cars.

The flare is easy to make. You need a bubble flare kit, most part stores will carry double flare kits (domestic cars use them). Find a bubble flare kit locally (also called a ISO flare kit) or buy one online.

Make sure when buying any brake line unions to make sure you are getting the appropriate union (bubble union for bubble flares).

When cutting the lines do NOT use tin snips or similar you will need a small pipe cutter that can be purchased from various hardware stores.

For more info I covered it here:

http://www.rtsauto.com/brake-lines-for-bmws-and-e30s-the-bubble-flare-not-the-double-flare/

[duct-tape]

right on. I dug up my bubble tool, I forgot I had one from my vw days.

question about the rubber bits. there's 5x 9" rubber pieces. Most of my tabs are rotten, the connectors are rotten too.
On the back end there's 2 inboard rubber hoses, and 2 outboard. The inboard are flex points for the control arms.
Is it necessary to replace the outboard ones with rubber or can I just use the 3/8" steel tube? It doesn't seem that you have to have a flex point at the caliper carrier.

This will save me a couple steps and about $25 in parts

[JGood]

right on. I dug up my bubble tool, I forgot I had one from my vw days.

question about the rubber bits. there's 5x 9" rubber pieces. Most of my tabs are rotten, the connectors are rotten too.
On the back end there's 2 inboard rubber hoses, and 2 outboard. The inboard are flex points for the control arms.
Is it necessary to replace the outboard ones with rubber or can I just use the 3/8" steel tube? It doesn't seem that you have to have a flex point at the caliper carrier.

This will save me a couple steps and about $25 in parts

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but how would you remove the calipers to replace the brake pads? You'd need to unhook the hard lines and bleed the brakes every time...

[FLG]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but how would you remove the calipers to replace the brake pads? You'd need to unhook the hard lines and bleed the brakes every time...

This.

Also there is *some movement at the caliper. I wouldn't want to stress the metal lines.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[noid]

right on. I dug up my bubble tool, I forgot I had one from my vw days.

question about the rubber bits. there's 5x 9" rubber pieces. Most of my tabs are rotten, the connectors are rotten too.
On the back end there's 2 inboard rubber hoses, and 2 outboard. The inboard are flex points for the control arms.
Is it necessary to replace the outboard ones with rubber or can I just use the 3/8" steel tube? It doesn't seem that you have to have a flex point at the caliper carrier.

This will save me a couple steps and about $25 in parts

They are rubber for a reason, there is some flex. $25 now is a hell of a lot better then having no brakes in an emergency.

[duct-tape]

alright, I hear ya,I'll go with the rubber. The main reason I was asking is that the tab on the back of the dust shield that holds the rubber is broken off.
I was thinking that I could just bend in a double ess to the steel line and that would account any movement.


I'll also add that I wasn't thinking about having to replace the brake pads. durr

[Cletonius]

Last I checked (last year), they were NLA.

yeah, I tried to order one and was shot down. It's brass (?) so it doesn't rot anyway.

Damn, you guys didn't try hard enough. I made one phone call and had it the next day from my dealer.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=3703431&postcount=21