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Bolt removal on control arm question....

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    #31
    What worked for me:

    22mm crows foot and Extensions on the drivers side to break loose, then just a regular 22mm wrench from underneath. On the passenger side you need a swivel/U-joint along with the 22mm crows foot and extensions to clear the exhaust. After that a 22mm wrench from underneath got it off just fine.

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      #32
      I used a open end 22mm then a stubby 22mm. It was a real PITA...but not as bad as getting the ball joints out.

      635csi Euro/Alpina B7S

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        #33
        you guys think that's bad?

        try threading the pipe between the clutch slave and clutch master...
        R.I.P 07/01/09 - 04/23/10 :(

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          #34
          ^that took some time

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            #35
            I just had to tackle this myself. I just don't get why everyone is saying a 22mm wrench. My car requires a 21mm and the replacement control arm nuts use 21mm as well. I too did not have a 21mm crows foot and could not get enough leverage onto my 21 mm wrench. So I used my 22mm (which was clearly too big) o2 sensor removal tool from bavarian auto. It is essentially a crows foot. So, I am not sure why everyone keeps saying a 22 mm when on my 87 it is clearly a 21mm nut. But either way, the crows foot concept worked perfectly on the passenger side. If that failed, I was going to bend a wrench.

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              #36
              Originally posted by clydesdale View Post
              I just had to tackle this myself. I just don't get why everyone is saying a 22mm wrench. My car requires a 21mm and the replacement control arm nuts use 21mm as well. I too did not have a 21mm crows foot and could not get enough leverage onto my 21 mm wrench. So I used my 22mm (which was clearly too big) o2 sensor removal tool from bavarian auto. It is essentially a crows foot. So, I am not sure why everyone keeps saying a 22 mm when on my 87 it is clearly a 21mm nut. But either way, the crows foot concept worked perfectly on the passenger side. If that failed, I was going to bend a wrench.

              just took mine off with a 22, worked fine. (91 318is)

              after you get the nut off, is there something else holding the stud in? CA doesnt want to come out still.... :?

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                #37
                The ball joint stud is probably corrosion seized into the sub frame. Liberal application of PBlaster or Kroil and time for them to work (hours to days) followed by a heavy impact will usually release the stud. In extreme cases it may be necessary to drop the subframe and press out the stud.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by 92 mtechnic cabrio View Post
                  you guys think that's bad?

                  try threading the pipe between the clutch slave and clutch master...
                  FUCK THAT. That took me waaaayy too long.

                  Have you made a purchase from www.blunttech.com recently?
                  sigpic<< wrecked

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                    #39
                    I want an angled 22mm gearwrench

                    Closing SOON!
                    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                      I want an angled 22mm gearwrench
                      They are great! I have a snap-on one and not a day goes by that I dont use one of them. Best tool I have bought so far.

                      www.gutenparts.com
                      One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                        #41
                        I just pulled the passenger control arm on my iX and it was a bit of a pain, but with a 22mm combination wrench, it only took me 3hrs total to pull and replace it. I had a shop pop in my new inner ball joint for $10, and was good to go. It was one of the easiest things I have ever done on that car.
                        The only trouble I had was keeping the inner stud from spinning. Putting a jack under it didn't work, but the top of the stud was flat on two sides and unthreaded, so I just threw on a pair of vice grips to hold it still.

                        Maybe it was just karma from the week long leaky gas tank hell project in which every single bolt snapped when I tried to remove it.

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                          #42
                          did not have a Metric crows foot, broke em loose wiht metric wrench, then used a sae crows foot and sae gear wrench, near enough same size
                          even had an old wintworth ( old british) stubby that fit in too

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