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New booster option for e30 - Bosch iBooster

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  • digger
    replied
    a shield is all you need to stop the radiation "line of sight". DEI sell some self adhesive barrier that performs the same function to reflect the heat

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  • iman53
    replied
    That is a very good point. And now that I think about it my master cylinder on my manual brake setup was even closer to the exhaust than this will be. I can upload some photos later of how I mounted mine and clearances. I still think I am going to make some sort of heat shield but I’ll see what you guys think.

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  • hubcapboy
    replied
    Your first symptom, like nando says, is going to be brake fluid boiling and complete loss of braking force. Every time I get stressed out from the clearances on these projects that are cobbled together I go back and look at the engine bays where the components came from. Look at the engine bay from wherever your V8 swap came from... if the distance is similar, you'll be fine.


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  • nando
    replied
    It's already automotive grade. I don't think normal engine bay heat should be an issue. If you're melting the brake booster you're probably also boiling your brake fluid.. neither would be good.

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  • iman53
    replied
    How do you guys think one of these will hold up against heat? And what would be a good way to protect it from heat? Such as headers on a V8 car. Aluminum heat shield and wrap it in gold wrap? If I can get it worked out in my v8 car I’m very concerned with killing it with heat from the headers. Any thoughts?

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  • DMan II-40
    replied
    This is really interesting stuff. I found a thread where a guy used a Volt iboost in his DeLorian, re-flared his lines and found the connections on AliExpress (China).

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16...oster-Retrofit

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  • digger
    replied
    01 Brake master cylinder 22,20/17,46MM 1 05/1987 34311157206

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  • hubcapboy
    replied
    Just checking in to say I don't have answers to the last two questions... My project is a few months out from the brake booster being installed. For "how to wire" I strongly suggest you get plugs, and if you can't find them for sale with plugs, call yards that are dismantling these cars. Usually the plugs aren't snipped because the car the part is going into already has the harness, but they aren't dismantling the harness for anything other than scrap copper.

    For plumbing, I believe all disc brake e30's have the same bore for the front and rear cylinders in the factory master. As long as the master you're using has the same bore front and rear, it won't change the brake balance or matter which is plumbed to which.

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  • iman53
    replied
    Hey all, I’m planning to try to fit the ibooster in my v8 e30 over this winter. I’m in the process of making new engine mounts as to allow more clearance for the booster. I have the Tesla version however I plan to buy the CRV master to allow me to run the remote reservoir because I plan to run the master at an angle.

    I’m trying to plan ahead and as far as lines go, does anyone in here recommend using the e30 factory bias valve over an aftermarket adjustable one? Or vise versa?

    Also I’m assuming that the front port on the master goes to the front brakes and the rear port goes to the rear? I may be very wrong here so please correct me.

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  • Bored
    replied
    Do any of you gents have a write up on getting these into the car? Would I be fine installing it without connectors, but the lines hooked up? I'm assuming I'd need to figure out power to it...

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  • chriso
    replied
    hubcapboy This is great! My iBooster2 was installed in my car back in August. It's not fully wired up yet. Just waiting on the final harness to be made for the car.

    Thread here: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...e6#post9953391

    I was trying to figure out what to fit in the car earlier this year when it came to the booster, and I settled on the CRV with the remote reservoir as a couple of you have pointed out.

    It still didnt quite fit with my ITBs, so we still had to relocate it on the firewall, but was otherwise pretty plug and play. I'll keep everyone updated with how the shop was able to get it done if we're able to complete the project before I put the car away from storage.

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  • Northern
    replied
    Thanks for crossposting this here Jon ^

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  • jon volk
    replied
    No, I don’t see a larger master really helping. It’ll just shorten the pedal further and there’s enough assist that it’ll probably make the brakes feel like an on/off switch. It’s pretty decent now once you spend some time with it, that is until further control is figured out.

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  • nando
    replied
    Hmm, it would seem the larger MC would be beneficial in that case to keep the pedal effort a little more normal?

    I'll bet the failsafe mode assistance is programmable too. It's only a matter of time until that's hacked.

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  • jon volk
    replied
    Failsafe mode works as intended. Pedal effort is nearly zero, which take a few to get used to, but short controllable pedal travel from engagement to locked.

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