New booster option for e30 - Bosch iBooster

[moatilliatta]

Morning iBooster team.

I am looking for a Master Cylinder inlet adapter for the MC so I can run a remote reservoir. I am utilizing this booster with an S54, and the airbox will not allow the factory reservoir to be used. Anyone have any insight?

You can use 944 booster, E32 MC and stock reservoir if you move the assembly over 1.5 inches.

[Ryan_penner]

Finally got mine in. It's pretty tight. I might need a new resevoir

[spiDmang]

Morning iBooster team.

I am looking for a Master Cylinder inlet adapter for the MC so I can run a remote reservoir. I am utilizing this booster with an S54, and the airbox will not allow the factory reservoir to be used. Anyone have any insight?

[Markus]

I am looking for some alternatives to the crv relocated reservoir, and I might have stumbled on a solution, but have not tested it yet. The reservoirs from this part: https://www.trodo.com/brake-master-c...-0-204-788-355

Its from different Fords, and they are alsi Bosch parts. They look pretty similar when compared with pictures. However, there are loads of different Ford masters that are kind of similar but this is the one i have found to be pretty much exactly like the ibooster one.

Here it is with reservoar:

[tyeler18]

has anyone done these with abs?

Mine will be, shouldn't be any different though. Plumb the lines into the pump like stock.

[luckybk]

has anyone done these with abs?

[cruizin01]

That is great! From just looking at pictures, the Tesla and E-golf master cylinder look the same, but the CRV one is a different type.

Did you use the crv reservoar?

I used the crv reservoir thats mounted to the master cylinder, I then used a universal brake fluid "tank"

[Markus]

I got mine working tonight with the Tesla booster. Once I had the front and rear plumbed correctly it works great. I had them backwards.

I would not recommend using the Honda CR-V unit as it caused a spongy pedal and just never worked right. It could have been a bad unit but it came from a 2019 car so I doubt it

FYI also, not all these units are the same. Well the castings of the pump are but the machining inside where the master cylinder fits in varies. So you really need to use a matching pump and master cylinder.

Wow does this thing work! It might almost work too good. Ill have to drive it some more and maybe make some adjustments.

That is great! From just looking at pictures, the Tesla and E-golf master cylinder look the same, but the CRV one is a different type.

Did you use the crv reservoar?

[cruizin01]

I got mine working tonight with the Tesla booster. Once I had the front and rear plumbed correctly it works great. I had them backwards.

I would not recommend using the Honda CR-V unit as it caused a spongy pedal and just never worked right. It could have been a bad unit but it came from a 2019 car so I doubt it

FYI also, not all these units are the same. Well the castings of the pump are but the machining inside where the master cylinder fits in varies. So you really need to use a matching pump and master cylinder.

Wow does this thing work! It might almost work too good. Ill have to drive it some more and maybe make some adjustments.

[Markus]

I installed the ibooster from a Volkswagen E-golf today, and hopefully it works when I get to testing it.

I used the clevis from the original e30 booster, which makes the clevis pin line up perfectly when the pedal is fully extended. The master is 23.81mm, so should feel different from the Tesla one.

[cruizin01]

I'm pulling out what little hair I have left on this iBooster swap.
I started with a Honda unit that looks pretty identical to the Tesla unit but when plumbed and wired its spongy and the pedal pulses at the bottom of it's travel. (I've bled the snot out of it)

I purchased an actual Tesla unit this week and plumbed it up yesterday. This setup makes the pedal rock hard. Like barely any pedal travel. Barely any brakes.

I checked that the unit functions before plumbing it up and it was similar in feel to the Honda booster. As in I plug it in and you can push the plunger in by hand which you can't do if it's not powered up. So I know both units work. They just don't work in the car

Just feeling defeated looking for any insight.

If I reinstall the chase bays booster delete setup the brakes work fine. (Just a stiffer pedal than I prefer)

[jbontke]

Does it have the MC? how much do you want for it?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/R3VLimited/permalink/10161591471537627/?sale_post_id=10161591471537627

[nando]

Does it have the MC? how much do you want for it?

[Bored]

First go uploading pictures here, but... this is a RHD tesla model s booster (1043885-00-A, as pictured). Leaving the community but I'd love to see it go with someone in the e30 world. Was planning on using it in an LS swap, but I'm in the process of selling the car so, here we are!





[sold!]

[Markus]

WOW, this is really cool.

Has anyone driven with the electric booster yet? Any more info on brake balance and feel? It looks like the e30 m3/e32 master is ~25mm for both ports, but the 325i has seperate dimension for the front and rear

It looks like it is a direct fit to the pedal assembly, just a little too short it says in the first post. Anyone looked into a clevis pin swap to fix this? Is it long enough to interact with the brake light switch? Pictures of assembly in car would be nice