Steering Guibo FAIL!!>!>>!>!! VIDEO!!

[Marauder42]

Bumping it one more time. Anyone?

[90pioneer]

I'll bump this too, would like the last posters question answered...

[immajackuup]

The new E30 sized urethane mount is found here......

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E30-clutch-driveline/e30strcplr.html

Can't wait to put this in tomorrow.

[Jaxx_]

Can't wait to put this in tomorrow.

please let us know about before/after steering feel.

[Marauder42]

Actually, I finally did this job on my wife's stock '89 325i this past weekend using the IE coupler above. Prior to the replacement, the original coupler appeared to be in decent shape with no obvious signs of cracking or deterioration. Even after I removed it from the car it looked ok. However, when looking down on the coupler from the engine bay, you could see the coupler flex when the steering wheel was turned :(. This explained why the steering wheel would turn a few degrees before the tires would respond. After the replacement, there is zero flex in the coupler so the tires turn in unison with the steering wheel :-). There was no noticeable increase in vibration in the steering wheel either (keep in mind this was done on a stock suspension). Overall, I'm very happy with the product and the positive difference in steering feel and would recommend this upgrade to anyone needing to change their stock coupler.

Replacement tips (sorry no photos):

1)Although I did the job without removing the steering rack completely, in hind sight, it most likely is easier to just remove it. Either way, rack bolts have to be removed in order to move the rack down and towards the front of the car.
2)You'll need a big ass flat head screwdriver to wedge into the coupling slots. These couplings were a pain in the ass to pull them off while under the car.
3)I used a pair of dikes to cut away the old rubber coupler. This separates the whole assembly into 2 pieces.
4)I sawed off the rivets that held the coupler in place as close to the universal joint as possible. Once sawed off I used a 2 jaw puller to push what remained of the rivet out.
5)When putting the assembly back on the car, I found it easier to slide the couplings on the splined shafts one end at a time. Once each end was on, I then attached the new coupler between the 2 ends and tightened the nuts and bolts using a little lock-tite.

Hope this helps.

[immajackuup]

please let us know about before/after steering feel.

as of right now my steering shimmy, feel very loose on freeway, turning left or right while moving doesn't fully turn, and when taking a hard turn I can feel the wheels turn the opposite direction.

Actually, I finally did this job on my wife's stock '89 325i this past weekend using the IE coupler above. Prior to the replacement, the original coupler appeared to be in decent shape with no obvious signs of cracking or deterioration. Even after I removed it from the car it looked ok. However, when looking down on the coupler from the engine bay, you could see the coupler flex when the steering wheel was turned :(. This explained why the steering wheel would turn a few degrees before the tires would respond. After the replacement, there is zero flex in the coupler so the tires turn in unison with the steering wheel :-). There was no noticeable increase in vibration in the steering wheel either (keep in mind this was done on a stock suspension). Overall, I'm very happy with the product and the positive difference in steering feel and would recommend this upgrade to anyone needing to change their stock coupler.

Replacement tips (sorry no photos):

1)Although I did the job without removing the steering rack completely, in hind sight, it most likely is easier to just remove it. Either way, rack bolts have to be removed in order to move the rack down and towards the front of the car.
2)You'll need a big ass flat head screwdriver to wedge into the coupling slots. These couplings were a pain in the ass to pull them off while under the car.
3)I used a pair of dikes to cut away the old rubber coupler. This separates the whole assembly into 2 pieces.
4)I sawed off the rivets that held the coupler in place as close to the universal joint as possible. Once sawed off I used a 2 jaw puller to push what remained of the rivet out.
5)When putting the assembly back on the car, I found it easier to slide the couplings on the splined shafts one end at a time. Once each end was on, I then attached the new coupler between the 2 ends and tightened the nuts and bolts using a little lock-tite.

Hope this helps.

thx for the tips.

[SkiFree]

I'll bump this too, would like the last posters question answered...

In regards to early non-airbag cars .... I'd use the thinner coupler as it's closer in size to the coupler on those cars (still .3" difference which is compensated for by adjusting the steering shaft clamps), Keep in mind that the thinner version doesn't come with hardware (since it's not needed on the 2002), probably be good with some 8x30 bolts, locknuts, and washers.




Above is a pic from an 84 buar non-airbag car, you can see that both the upper and lower shaft clamps can be adjusted up and down slightly (this goes back to the 2002's, and is obviously the same as the air bag E30's).

Below is the thinner piece on my 2002 steering box, you can see why no hardware is needed (and how the E30 system is simply an evolution of the 02 system.)

[jeffnhiscars]

Above is a pic from an 84 buar non-airbag car, you can see that both the upper and lower shaft clamps can be adjusted up and down slightly (this goes back to the 2002's, and is obviously the same as the air bag E30's).

Are you sure the lower clamp can be adjusted ? I know the Baur is a Eurospec car but all of the racks I've seen had a groove on the rack splines to mechanically lock the clamp bolt so it could not move up or down. Same knuckle as in your pic.

[SkiFree]

Are you sure the lower clamp can be adjusted ? I know the Baur is a Eurospec car but all of the racks I've seen had a groove on the rack splines to mechanically lock the clamp bolt so it could not move up or down. Same knuckle as in your pic.

Went out and had a close look at the bottom, I stand corrected, you are correct.

[immajackuup]

no need for lock tie because those are locking nuts and the sleeves are easily to press out.


front side smooth with bubbles.


back side not smooth

[immajackuup]

bushing look fine but there's alot of play when wiggle.

branch cutter=life saver.


push coupler up with flat head.

mark spindle

bitch got murder

grinder/wheel cutter

The bitch part
grinder,wheel cutter,2pound hammer,flat head,punch and lots of man powa.



haven't test drive yet but there is no play what so ever.

[Marauder42]

Cool! You managed to get it off without dropping the steering rack. What year and model is your car? Your coupler assembly looks like the one in my '91 318. The one on the 325 is much larger. BTW, looks like you're missing a few bolts in the last pic.

[immajackuup]

Cool! You managed to get it off without dropping the steering rack. What year and model is your car? Your coupler assembly looks like the one in my '91 318. The one on the 325 is much larger. BTW, looks like you're missing a few bolts in the last pic.

1991 318is,missing bolts because it wasn't fully install.

[SkiFree]

1991 318is,missing bolts because it wasn't fully install.

Thought you were just living on the edge.;)

[iChase]

that happened to my delphin 325is, after i murdered a ditch

I like the fender dents. Were you wearing chucks? hahaha