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new control arms and m3 offset bushings

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    #16
    If you burn them out you won't need a shop for removal. Might save you a little bit of money.

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      #17
      You can burn the rubber out but there is still a thin metal ring that will be really hard to get out.

      RISING EDGE

      Let's drive fast and have fun.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Digitalwave
        You can burn the rubber out but there is still a thin metal ring that will be really hard to get out.
        What he said... been there... done that... take it to a machine shop.

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          #19
          I found it pretty easy to cut the old bushings out with a hacksaw, but I already had a set of CAB brackets out of the car. as far as pressing them onto the control arm, you can do it with a BFH but it's still a pain in the ass.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #20
            Originally posted by Digitalwave
            You can burn the rubber out but there is still a thin metal ring that will be really hard to get out.
            true, There is rubber under the the metal ring thought. So you just have to heat up both sides till you have hot rubber burning out, then it just slips right off ;)

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              #21
              uh, no. there is no rubber on the outside of the CAB. although once you have the rubber out of the middle, cutting out the ring isn't too hard.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #22
                I agree a press is the best route.

                I have removed old bushings with a chisel though. And you can use a vice to install but you need a large piece of pipe to sit the bracket on as the bushing has to have a lip on both sides of the bracket.

                James

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                  #23
                  I am in the process of removing my control arms and my tie rods, I cant get the inner ball joint out it just spins, whether or not they stripped the screw when the tightened it 21 years ago I dont know, I chiseled off the lock ring/plate off the tie rod and it wont budge, I heated it up for like 5 mins with a torch and still nothing, does anyone know any other tricks with either the tie rod or a stripped inner ball joint?


                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657387

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by nando
                    uh, no. there is no rubber on the outside of the CAB. although once you have the rubber out of the middle, cutting out the ring isn't too hard.
                    Oh I was talking about what was left over on the CA itself.. I think you're talking about the ring on the bracket.... good point

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by nefarious7907
                      I am in the process of removing my control arms and my tie rods, I cant get the inner ball joint out it just spins, whether or not they stripped the screw when the tightened it 21 years ago I dont know, I chiseled off the lock ring/plate off the tie rod and it wont budge, I heated it up for like 5 mins with a torch and still nothing, does anyone know any other tricks with either the tie rod or a stripped inner ball joint?
                      welcome to the club. I had a tie-rod end that would do that. the rod just turns. After impact didn't work, I used a pair of vise-grips to hold the shaft steady, and the impact gun to the get the nut off. slowly, take your time, give it time to cool if it heats up.

                      On the other side of the car, I had a ball joint which was rusted into the strut housing and wouldn't slide out. I had to cut the threaded shaft off, drill out half the shaft, heat it up, used the impact hammer/chissel. It gave up after a couple hours

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Schneider325
                        Oh I was talking about what was left over on the CA itself.. I think you're talking about the ring on the bracket.... good point
                        actually, if you tweak your method and don't try to burn off the bushings, just get them warm (about when they catch on fire is good, I have pics...). they'll slide right off leaving the control arm clean.

                        either way you have to bring it to a shop to have the new bushings pressed into the eyes, so it's up to you whether it's worth it to mess around trying to cut the bushings out. I did it out of boredom on an extra set I bought..
                        Build thread

                        Bimmerlabs

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                          #27


                          These look to be quite effective, and have a built in offset... what does everyone think of them?
                          If the link dies, just go to www.bimmerworld.com the eyeball arms are on the front page.

                          Just another option!

                          Josh W.
                          Arctic Blue '86 eta w/ Dinan ECU

                          2.7 liters + 3 pedals = WEEEEEEEE!

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by 325extatic
                            https://secure5.nexternal.com/bimmer...yeballArms.jpg

                            These look to be quite effective, and have a built in offset... what does everyone think of them?
                            If the link dies, just go to www.bimmerworld.com the eyeball arms are on the front page.

                            Just another option!

                            Josh W.
                            A lot of people have these on this forum, they are a great product.

                            RISING EDGE

                            Let's drive fast and have fun.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by emi
                              welcome to the club. I had a tie-rod end that would do that. the rod just turns. After impact didn't work, I used a pair of vise-grips to hold the shaft steady, and the impact gun to the get the nut off. slowly, take your time, give it time to cool if it heats up.

                              On the other side of the car, I had a ball joint which was rusted into the strut housing and wouldn't slide out. I had to cut the threaded shaft off, drill out half the shaft, heat it up, used the impact hammer/chissel. It gave up after a couple hours
                              It didnt take two second to get the tie rod off once I got a monkey wrench, I did the pass side in two minutes flat, courtesy monkey wrench it will definately be a part of my tool set now.

                              As for the ball joint, cutting the boot off and trying to hold it with vise grips worked but neither me or my friend could budge it. So I resorted to other methods and used a hack saw to cut the ball joint with an inch or so hanging beneath the subframe so as to hammer the rest up through the subframe... it didnt work, I am going to get a dremel and cut the nut off of the ball joint. This a lot more than I planned for but this isnt the first time this 21 year old car has suprised me.


                              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657387

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