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here is my list for what i will be doing to my suspension hopfully soon
IE stage 3's
shocks and struts (some used koni's i hope)
powerflex offset bushings (when were they updated?)
rear subframe bushings (are the rtrs ones good?)
stock rear trailing arm bushings i guess.
IE's toe and camber adjustment kit for the rear
what rear shock mounts would you recommend
anything im missing?
and it doesnt seem like it would be too hard to make some camber plates. one circular plate to hold the stock strut mount with a few bolts comming out if it in the middle and another plate with some slots in it for the bolts sticking out if the other plate.
So you're gonna spend the time and money to completely overhaul your suspension, but cheap out on camber plates and find some used, worn out Konis.
Seriously, as Big Dawg said, why do you halfass everything on that car?
cause i dont wanna drop like 500 on konis on a car with a blue book value 4 times that.
right now im looking at these camber plates. or maybe the street/track ones. Will ones with out bushings decrease the ride quality very much? The thing i like about these is that it looks like you could put both the bolts on the 2 inner holes to have some positive camber and both on the outside to have some negitive camber
well on my old tires with factory camber they were noticibly worn on the insides more then the outsides, probably mainly on the back but the alignment only shows like -.8 degrees back there and the total toe is only .05 degrees. hmmm
then why would my alignment be within spec? and i think some of it might of had to do with running 17's and the previous owner being a girl that probably never drive it hard
yeah but i would think there would be more stress on the inside of a tire with a 40 or less side wall then one with the same amout of camber and huge ass sidewalls
After hanging off the RTRS nutsack, I have removed myself.
Here is why:
Their camber plates are designed like shit, the square taper studs routinely strip out (way too loose), and they are so low quality that the threads wear down with time. That is bullshit. From the factory, the only way to make the bastards move is to make the tolerance between the stud and the plate so loose that the bolt corners are only touching the plate. No wonder they only say 10 ft/lbs.
Moving on, we address the e34/e32/e28/e24 thrust arm bushings:
After installing 6-7 pairs, every single one has gone bad. They all seperated around the inner race. Even when they told you to just snug (snug!!) the bolt down, they still seperate. Mind you, this is a few cars on stock 15" wheels.
Continuing, let's go to the rear trailing arm bushings. After a year or so on the street, and 2 races (thats RACES, not weekends), the bushings have once again seperated from the metal sleeve.
However, I can't rip on them too bad, as they do not slip, and are a great design otherwise. Also, mine do not make any noise, yet the later ones will not shut up. I dont know if they changed their compounds or what.
The only decent thing they make is their rear subframe bushings. Although they are so loud that my car sounds like a 747, they are very very stiff, and provide great feedback, and already were worth their money at the track.
If they can somehow solve the problem of bonding the bushing materal to the metal sleeves, they would make a fucking awesome product lineup.
Nick, you need to stop posting so much and use the search button.
NASA MidSouth TT Director / GTS2 #018
Mods: Coastal PS Fluid, 10w40 Oil
Future Mods: Bosch Micro-Edge Wiper Blades, Painter's Tape, Spark Plugs, Freezer for Nutty Buddys, Adam Nitti CD's
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