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Ok - what's the best way to tighten the top nut on the strut insert?

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    Ok - what's the best way to tighten the top nut on the strut insert?

    I'm not the best mechanic - but I've already done so many things to familiarize myself wih this car. Oil pan, cluth, diff, bushings, suspension etc.

    But I'm still confused as to what's the best way to get the top nut on our strut inserts tight. Everything I do either strips the Alan key female on the struts or spins the strut when I want to tighten - even with a torque gun. How do I get this 17mm baby tight without damaging anything?

    #2
    I use an impact. Usually electric when I'm at home.
    BimmerHeads
    Classic BMW Specialists
    Santa Clarita, CA

    www.BimmerHeads.com

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      #3
      +1 impact. A couple of short blips with the gun and your G2G.
      You want to avoid spinning the shaft a whole bunch, thus the short blips.
      88 325ix, 72 Type 1, 81 Starlet

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        #4
        IIRC I used a ground down socket w/wrench and an allen key. if you're stripping it you're probably over-doing it.

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        Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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          #5
          Ill try more of the impact method. ^^^ Thats the ideal way, but the alan female gets stripped before you torque down the nut the right amount. I think several others here had the same issue.

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            #6
            FYI an impact wrench will leave a signature on the nut and that will void your warranty (AMHIK)
            Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
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              #7
              Not that I'd go buy a bigass pipe wrench just for this job, but that's what I used. Wrapped a rag around the strut, and the pipe,wrench around that. Took some doing but she didn't move!
              -------------------------------------------------
              1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
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                #8
                Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                FYI an impact wrench will leave a signature on the nut and that will void your warranty (AMHIK)
                How would they know? Why would you send them the 17mm nut with your struts?

                an electric impact is enough to get them tight and it's not going to dent the nut anyway.
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by nando View Post
                  How would they know? Why would you send them the 17mm nut with your struts?

                  an electric impact is enough to get them tight and it's not going to dent the nut anyway.
                  I didnt send them anything. The threaded tip of the strut tube sheered while the nut was being removed and they decided it had been installed with an impact gun and denied the claim. I went around the block with them for a month and they never even saw the broken tip & nut.

                  Logically if the tube was damaged on install it would not have waited a decade to come apart but there was no talking to them on this. If it sheers they will tell you its impact damage.

                  In the end they cut me a deal to rebuild it and got it back to me in a week. It was not a battle I was going to win.
                  Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                  Alice the Time Capsule
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                  87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                    #10
                    make sure the car is on the ground, then pull out the impact gun and get the job done.
                    Bought parts from me before? leave your feedback here

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                      I didnt send them anything. The threaded tip of the strut tube sheered while the nut was being removed and they decided it had been installed with an impact gun and denied the claim. I went around the block with them for a month and they never even saw the broken tip & nut.

                      Logically if the tube was damaged on install it would not have waited a decade to come apart but there was no talking to them on this. If it sheers they will tell you its impact damage.

                      In the end they cut me a deal to rebuild it and got it back to me in a week. It was not a battle I was going to win.
                      well, I don't see how that's relevant to actually using an impact, since they denied your claim without even seeing anything. unless you do something really stupid you're not going to shear the shaft off (unless it's just going to break anyway). :p
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

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                        #12
                        Last few times I've had the front end apart I've held a deep socket with either channel locks or a pair of vice grips and an allen key on the strut shaft. Just make sure it's seated as far as it can in the strut shaft otherwise you could strip it.

                        But if you have access to an electric impact, that'd be much easier.
                        84 325e - 91 325i - 92 318 touring - 91 Trans Am - 01 S4 avant - 03 S-type R - 96 F350
                        Manual swap all the things!

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by iansane View Post
                          Last few times I've had the front end apart I've held a deep socket with either channel locks or a pair of vice grips and an allen key on the strut shaft. Just make sure it's seated as far as it can in the strut shaft otherwise you could strip it.

                          But if you have access to an electric impact, that'd be much easier.
                          +1

                          This guy in the middle to hold the shaft from spinning


                          and this


                          being gripped by this for leverage.




                          If you get a real life t-handle or a long hex socket set (I have the set pictured below) then you can use a deep socket and vice grips without any problems. trying to get it done with regular cheapo allen wrenches is a major PITA!

                          I have these, great for getting out brake rotor set screws too.
                          My E30 v1.0 | v2.0 | v3.0 | My E28 |My E34 | My feedback

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by iansane View Post
                            Last few times I've had the front end apart I've held a deep socket with either channel locks or a pair of vice grips and an allen key on the strut shaft. Just make sure it's seated as far as it can in the strut shaft otherwise you could strip it.
                            +1

                            Exactly what I did. Got it plenty tight, and didn't strip anything. IMO, if you're stripping something, you're using the wrong tool, or trying to get it WAY too tight.

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                              #15
                              19mm = 3/4", or close enough to it with a 6-point socket

                              Use a standard sparkplug socket like this:



                              Insert the allen wrench down the middle, but a box end wrench on the socket and tighten it right up.
                              Last edited by Just Scott; 01-31-2013, 04:21 PM.
                              1990 325is - sterling silver, very nice, maybe for sale

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