Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30

[hoveringuy]

Here's how I solved the E85 rack into airbag column puzzle:

3/4-48 to 3/4-DD U-joint to a 3/4 DD shaft that's welded onto a section of stock airbag spine. (photo compared to stock airbag shaft)

[Striker01]

I could have done this with only one weld seam but I made it too short the first time.

The original has ball bearings that slide between the inner and outer pieces to allow it to collapse. My plan was to cut it down and just use the bearings and their holder but I couldn't get them to slide in once it was shortened, it may taper slightly. Even if I could have used them, it wouldn't have allowed any collapsibility, the section is just too short. Would've also had to figure out how to keep dirt out as the original plastic cover pieces have grooves that would be cut off.

I ordered 7mm steel rod, hindsight 6 would've been better, I had to do a lot of sanding and grinding to get the 7mm to slide in.



I beveled the edges to ensure good penetration when welding but once this thing is on the car I don't see any way it could separate.



Slide the rods in to hold it aligned and weld it up.



The steering column will also require a notch for the upper bolt to go through. It was tricky to mark where in the tight confines. I ended up shaving down a crayon with a vegetable peeler and ran it back an forth through the hole, with the bottom bolted to the rack and the rack bolted into position, to mark my grind spot.

[Striker01]

Decided to try out this rack since I have the EPAS system hoveringuy came up with, expertly assembled by adam.nonis!

FIRST NOTE: Do not buy the new AAE new rack that rockauto and others sell. The splines are too big and the original Z4 knuckle wouldn't slide on easily. I don't believe this is a one off issue, I also have an AAE e46 rack and had a really hard time getting the e30 knuckle on those splines as well.

I got a used OEM unit and the knuckle slid right on, it also came with the plastic cover for the shaft.



This thing is buttery smooth and can easily be turned by hand. I installed new Z4 inner and e36 outer tie rods, used the URO boot kit and they fit great.

This thing is 3 turns lock to lock as discussed before and I like it much better than the 2.7 one I took off. Anything above 15mph is great even without using electric power assist. If it wasn't for super slow maneuvering I'm not sure power assist is even necessary. To me it feels much easier than a power rack with the block off plate.

Earlier in this discussion people talked about the steering shaft but didn't really go into detail. Modify it at your own risk, my way doesn't allow it to collapse but I don't believe the standard e36 rack swap does either when you replace those rivets with m12 or whatever those massive bolts are.

Here is the finished product. 2 3/8" length between the knuckles allowed it to fully seat on the rack and plenty far on the steering column. Any longer and I wouldn't have been able to install it by removing one rack bolt and pivoting the the rack up against the oil pan, it also would be very close to rubbing on my firewall insulation if it was longer.

[hoveringuy]

I've been thinking about this every time I see that $1700 one posted on facebook, but then I think $1700 is a hell of a lot of money for power steering.

yeah, it would be cool if someone figured this out for not so much.

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/springs-shocks-sways-steering/10116665-epas-or-e-power-steering

[Northern]

Need to revive this thread -again- because with electric power steering columns coming on-line this is the natural rack choice....

I've been thinking about this every time I see that $1700 one posted on facebook, but then I think $1700 is a hell of a lot of money for power steering.

[hoveringuy]

Need to revive this thread -again- because with electric power steering columns coming on-line this is the natural rack choice....

[Silveiro]

Hey guys, anyone run this in a rhd car?

[Victell]

To all that have had this Z4 rack for a while, what are your long-term impressions?

Ok as a daily? Are road vibrations too irritating?

[Bearmw]

I have run this rack for a while now with a 3/4" DD rod and two Flaming River u-joints on my street driven vert and enjoy the feel but at times on longer trips the small vibrations can become tiring and annoying. I still like this setup but looked into some type of vibration reducing U-JOINT or rag joint from Borgeson and Flaming River but I couldn't find anything that would work. I guess it means live with it or go back to power steering. Just something to consider.

[CMBusch]

Is this for your daily driver? What are your impressions?

Nope, this is for my weekend/track car.
Now that I've gotten it on the road, it's really not that bad. Even with 205/50/15 Federal 595 RS-RRs, it still feels better than any non-assisted power steering rack. It's also easier to turn than a non-assisted power steering rack, but parallel parking still isn't fun. I wouldn't have it on my daily, but I could definitely get used to it. You don't need to have strong arms but if your anatomy more closely resembles a stick figure, you may find it difficult sometimes.
Driving feel is good on the road at speed and for track use. That being said, I wouldn't use it for a drift car or take long trips with it. You do get a very good feel of the road, but in some cases they car may fight your steering inputs.

[Victell]

Is this for your daily driver? What are your impressions?

I just did this on my non-airbag E30 and wanted to share some pictures/info for clarification.

The steering shaft runs around $40 on ebay.
Took off the plastic "shell" and yanked the two halfs apart throwing away the bearings.
Cleaned off the grease on the shafts.
Put both ends on their respective splines and measured how much needed to be cut off.
Shortened the shafts, cleaned off the coating where I would be welding (on the ends and bearing channels).
Welded rod in the bearing channels (not sure if necessary but it made me feel better).
Welded where the outer rod meets the end and tack welded the end of the inner shaft.
Cleaned up my welds on a grinder to look factory-ish.

[CMBusch]

I just did this on my non-airbag E30 and wanted to share some pictures/info for clarification.

The steering shaft runs around $40 on ebay.
Took off the plastic "shell" and yanked the two halfs apart throwing away the bearings.
Cleaned off the grease on the shafts.
Put both ends on their respective splines and measured how much needed to be cut off.
Shortened the shafts, cleaned off the coating where I would be welding (on the ends and bearing channels).
Welded rod in the bearing channels (not sure if necessary but it made me feel better).
Welded where the outer rod meets the end and tack welded the end of the inner shaft.
Cleaned up my welds on a grinder to look factory-ish.

Edit: Sorry for the wide images.

[Bearmw]

About time.

[Jdesign]

What is the answer?

Sorry for the late response

Its normal for the racks to have a notch or indent along the travel of rotations.

[Bearmw]

I thought I was getting some play from the column spindle bearing but what it was is that when I cut and modified the 3/4" DD rod to work with the Flaming River joints I made it a bit too short and also the holes for the securing screws were a bit too big in diameter. This allowed for a bit of play. I ended up making another DD shaft that was more precise and now the play is gone. It had nothing to do with the column.

Now having done a good amount of street driving with this setup I can say that I may swap my M3 offset CABs for some 96-99 M3 centered bushings as the extra caster from the offset bushings makes the effort a bit much for my taste.

My car is an 89 vert weekend toy that is driven almost exclusively on the street. If my car was a track car then for sure I would keep the offset bushings but I seldom even see 90 mph so I don't really need the extra caster that much.

I really like the manual rack (especially that it now has no play) but I think I will like it more with less caster.