4in springs and raceland vs jom?

[e^2]

Why does it seem the idiots all flock to suspension threads?

It doesn't work like that. The spring sits about halfway between the trailing arm pivot and the wheel centerline, so a 5" spring with the same rate as your 6" spring should (theoretically) lower you about 2". It's not exactly halfway though, and there are other angles in play so it won't be exact, but don't think 1" at the spring equals 1" at the wheels.

No shit sherlock. Do you want me to get into the math or do you want me to keep it simple? Every time I start to make it complicated peoples brains turn off.

@Chris, I used a '89 camaro rear shock. They weigh a little more in the rear but that works out with the stiffer spring rates. Bolt in replacement if you get a kit with the camaro rear bolts (they are metric).

[CHIF8008]

if you intend to use these waffleswaffleswaffleswaffleswaffleswaffles adjusters.

truth. over time mine got so loose that the collars slipped threads and caused the spring to sit cock-eyed. go with a "square cut" threaded adjuster if you ever plan to buy other ones

[Stephen]

A 4" spring with no adjuster will have the trailing arms bottomed out. If you want to go that low, it is a nessecity to trim the spring centering nubs like Chif said.

At what rate?

I run a 4" 600# without adjuster, but with spring pads and do not bottom out on the arm. Removed pads made for basically no travel of shock, didnt check arm clearance.

[ak-]

At what rate?

I run a 4" 600# without adjuster, but with spring pads and do not bottom out on the arm. Removed pads made for basically no travel of shock, didnt check arm clearance.

Haha, you'd probably hear the clearance first.

[Stephen]

I know it wasnt bottomed out completely, i wouldve felt that lol. It was just 0 shock travel on bilstein feels.

[Chriskbmx]

haha i will get other adjusters in the future for sure, but if it works out i might just use the original spring pads and just he spring.

[E30SPDFRK]

No shit sherlock. Do you want me to get into the math or do you want me to keep it simple? Every time I start to make it complicated peoples brains turn off.

@Chris, I used a '89 camaro rear shock. They weigh a little more in the rear but that works out with the stiffer spring rates. Bolt in replacement if you get a kit with the camaro rear bolts (they are metric).

Easy there tough guy, you're the one who posted wrong or misleading information. Half the people in this thread already don't have a brain it seems, so why go posting wrong information and confuse them more?

At what rate?

I run a 4" 600# without adjuster, but with spring pads and do not bottom out on the arm. Removed pads made for basically no travel of shock, didnt check arm clearance.

I know it wasnt bottomed out completely, i wouldve felt that lol. It was just 0 shock travel on bilstein feels.

I tried with 800lb and no pads and it was bottomed. I wouldn't think the pads make that much of a difference but they could.

And it is impossible to bottom out a Bilstein in the back. You can remove the spring and jack up the trailing arm till it touches the body and still unbolt the shock and move it up more.

[CHIF8008]

im running the camaro AGX adjustables in the rear. kinda wish i went with even a shorter shock if what your saying is true about the bilsteins

[Stephen]

Easy there tough guy, you're the one who posted wrong or misleading information. Half the people in this thread already don't have a brain it seems, so why go posting wrong information and confuse them more?



I tried with 800lb and no pads and it was bottomed. I wouldn't think the pads make that much of a difference but they could.

And it is impossible to bottom out a Bilstein in the back. You can remove the spring and jack up the trailing arm till it touches the body and still unbolt the shock and move it up more.

800 is stiffer, so compressed length would be longer. That and pads probably make up the differnce.

I can recheck, but i was hitting bumpstop not arm. I'm 100% positive. Bilstein bumps are just a dense foam, so just because there is negligible movement doesnt mean you're not out of stroke and in the bumpstop. They are also out of the shock's usable stroke regardless of trailing arm. I have some old bilsteins this happened on, and the shock was so fucked up swapping out to proper ones actually allowed the rear to settle maybe a half inch.

[E30SPDFRK]

Did you have an external bumpstop? I could push it up by hand probably .5-.75" before it got too hard to push.

[Stephen]

Dont believe so but its been a while. Ill look next time my cars up in the air, youve got me wondering now

[einstein57]

No you don't need to cut the metal nub if you use a 4" with the adjuster and don't cut it regardless, wow.
And no it is not going to fit the rear JOM adjuster unless you unscrew the collar, flip it, and screw it back on to the sleeve. I'm telling you this because this is what I have on MY car. 4" 750lbs Hypercoil on the JOM flipped adjuster late model car.
I'm a half inch away from tucking the rim and am limited by the flipped adjuster (as I've mentioned beforehand). Considering you ordered 600lbs springs, yours will sag more when maxed out if you intend to use these waffleswaffleswaffleswaffleswaffleswaffles adjusters.

I thought you had 2.25" springs. That would make more sense considering hypercoil does not have a 750# 4" spring with a 2.5" I.D. in their catalog. :giggle:

[ak-]

I thought you had 2.25" springs. That would make more sense considering hypercoil does not have a 750# 4" spring with a 2.5" I.D. in their catalog. :giggle:

I do have 2.25"s

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=2937938&postcount=4

I think I see the confusion. I didn't see where the OP was asking if 2.5" would work instead and I kept rambling how to make 2.25"s work.

[Chriskbmx]

it is all good my friend. i got the 4inch springs and they arrived at my door, this weekend we will see how they look!