Originally posted by jlevie
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KONI vs BILSTEIN
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1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver
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I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!
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Personally I like dailying on HR sport springs and koni SA with GC camber plates. I had HR race, but im not a fan of getting beat to death on my commute. I've heard over and over that revlaved bilsteins are the best but for the price it's hard to justify them. however, stock bilsteins sports are way too soft for a spring stiffer than an HR sport. some local guys have blown several of them on HR race spring/coilover. and i think most of us would agree koni NA are just crap. but best bang for the buck is koni SAs. you pretty much adjust them as jim posted and it's a great ride for autoX and DD.
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostUnderstand that the adjustments on Koni SA shocks only affect rebound damping.
Originally posted by jlevie View PostA shock has a negligible contribution to stiffness as compared to the springs. to get a firmer, stiffer ride, you increase the spring rates. Then set up the shocks for those rates.
I have to completely disagree here. On an adjustable shock you can effectively render the suspension static except for low speed movement. The stiffness feel of an overdamped suspension is as bad or worse than an oversprung one.
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Originally posted by Earendil View PostYou come so close to answering my question, but end of diverging into stating that you don't like the H&R Race Springs. Good info still, but I'm left wondering what you think of shocks. Obviously for the spec class the B-shocks are your only option. But what would you choose if tomorrow they opened up the shocks only, and left you with the H&R Race?
I didn't say that I didn't like the H&R Race springs, only that if not constrained by class rules I'd use a much stiffer spring for better control of the car and more predictable handling. H&R Race springs, Bilstein Sport shocks, and 22/19mm sways (the Bimmerworld sways are the best) is a good, inexpensive combination. But you can do better.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostI would try Koni's, perhaps re-valved. Having Bilstein Sport shocks rebuilt every other year is a nuisance. But then I'm taking a race car where every bit matters.
I didn't say that I didn't like the H&R Race springs, only that if not constrained by class rules I'd use a much stiffer spring for better control of the car and more predictable handling. H&R Race springs, Bilstein Sport shocks, and 22/19mm sways (the Bimmerworld sways are the best) is a good, inexpensive combination. But you can do better.
Budget is such that I look at "go fast" parts and the price equates to track days for me. Switching to Koni's? That'll cost two track days. Having the bilsteins revalved? That'll only cost a single track day! It's a weird economic world to live in.-------------------------------------------------
1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver
sigpic
I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!
Comment
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Originally posted by Cabriolet View PostPersonally I like dailying on HR sport springs and koni SA with GC camber plates. I had HR race, but im not a fan of getting beat to death on my commute. I've heard over and over that revlaved bilsteins are the best but for the price it's hard to justify them. however, stock bilsteins sports are way too soft for a spring stiffer than an HR sport. some local guys have blown several of them on HR race spring/coilover. and i think most of us would agree koni NA are just crap. but best bang for the buck is koni SAs. you pretty much adjust them as jim posted and it's a great ride for autoX and DD.1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
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Originally posted by LJ851 View PostRebound damping changes do affect compression damping , but on a much smaller scale.
I have to completely disagree here. On an adjustable shock you can effectively render the suspension static except for low speed movement. The stiffness feel of an overdamped suspension is as bad or worse than an oversprung one.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jan318So I can use Konis SA with stock springs? Or would be a waste of money.
For all practical purposes the Koni's will be lifetime shocks as I can compensate for wear. So I would not consider them to be a waste of money.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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True.
I believe both have their place, it's very subjective. I deal with both platforms on different set-ups all over the world, my consensus is vague at best.
Ultimately, especially in the enthusiast world, it's different strokes...the area, uses, and user all come into play. I prefer an adjustable damper, but I'm a suspension tweaker. I'm constantly making changes to my liking. Sometimes for no reason than to entertain my curiosity, sometimes to better answer questions... sometimes, just because I have nothing better to do than turn knobs while I'm driving myself to the ends of nowhere on a sunny Saturday.
One thing I have found with Konis is many have no idea how to use the adjustment to their benefit. I constantly hear,"I turned them all the way firm and the car got bouncier." or, "I'm only turning the knob a quarter of a turn".
Both scenarios shout TROUBLE. Turning the knob to full stiff, with most street springs will, as JLevie said, ratchet the damper right down onto the bumpstop and render the suspension lifeless.
Most don't realize that a quarter turn on a Koni is a BIG change. When I speak to first time, or frustrated users, I tell them to make adjustments and visualize the face of a clock. Only make changes in "5 minute" increments. This usually yields much better results, and gives you a reference point so you can start over if necessary.
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