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If you can get wheels for $300 and spacers for $150, or wheels that are direct fit for $500, and the resulting offset is the same, the combined weight is the same.... what the difference?
One less thing to cause vibrations or break with direct fitting wheels.
You COULD have gotten K1s to fit directly.
for $50 more i'd get the direct fitting wheels anyday.
axxe was still very very ignorant as is the r3v-standard when making statement about no one running spacers at the track.
I assume trent had to with the superleggas. and people with e36 m3s do it to be able to clear with big r comps.
who has direct fitment K1s??
everyone i've ran into has to use rings. similar to at least a few BBS rims, like the guy who used to have them on his Mini. having rings allows a company to make one wheel cheaply and have rings to adapt to different applications. (alter offsets as well).
are you talking about having a 15x7 drilled out from a blank? can you choose the hub centerbore that way??
that would be more costly than just getting an OTS K1 and using a ring. And I mean it is aluminum, and half of SpecE30 and K-prepared are using K1s with rings, so I think we'll be okay.
I’m not being ingnorant at all. If anything you are. I just stated, in a sarcastic manner, that it’s not recommended to run spacers on the track. You assumed that I was just using them for the silly autoX that we run, which is just for shits and giggles.
Wheels that fit the tire you want without spacers >>>> Wheels with spacers
The biggest difference between running wheels with spacers and without spacers is the added stress on the studs, which may be a non-issue if you have quality studs. I’d still feel safer running without a spacer, which is what I plan on doing.
I am going to be running spacers on the street though, and that doesn’t matter as much as on the track since the stress (and prolonged stress) is much less.
You still haven't told me what makes spacers bad or adds stress or anything. And who doesn't recommend them for track use? Sounds to me like you are just making stuff up, or going off of horrible hearsay.
And for T.Dot; if you have hubcentric spacers there will be NO vibrations! Its the exact same thing as mounting the rim to the hub.
The reason I run hubcentric rings and spacers is because even with those added costs, my rims were dirt cheap and are a great setup being strong and 14lbs each for 16".
So 15x7 et27 and 15x8 et22 will fit an e30 without any spacers/rings or anything? What if it is lowered, any difference? Advantage of getting an 8" versus 7" wide wheel?
Both of those setups will work fine with *most* 225s on the ET27 model, and about all of them with the ET22. Advanatges to the 8" wheel includes a measurably wider contact patch, and a more predictable loss of traction (less abrupt, more controllable), given the same tire size on each.
Originally posted by DrMcDave
whats the pricing like on the 16x7.5's. Looking for a direct fitting wheel so custom drilled is perfect. i'd try to pull of et32 on my ix, it would be tight, but it may work.
is 7.5 wide the ideal size to run 225's on? or is it 8. I'd guess 8.
ET32 16x7.5" has plenty of room towards the fender on an iX, and I mean plenty. In reality, the hub geometry difference between the RWD and AWD chassis is only around 5-7mm per side, max.
The biggest difference between running wheels with spacers and without spacers is the added stress on the studs, which may be a non-issue if you have quality studs. I’d still feel safer running without a spacer, which is what I plan on doing.
TJ: Stress on studs. Wheel has more leverage on a longer stud than a shorter stud, simple torque. Go see how many real race cars run spacers. No body goes out of their way to run spacers, everyone goes out of their way not to run them. I'd rather not run them on the track, but for cruising around between photoshoots they are more than ample ;)
People often overlook the use of spacers in relation to wheel offset.
For instance, my car currently has wheels with 40mm of offset, and I use 20mm double-hubcentric spacers (H&R) to bring the effective offset to 20mm. If I had a set of wheels with 20mm offset, and did not use the spacers, the forces placed on the bearings would be identical.
Now, if I mounted those 20mm offset wheels with 15mm spacers behind them, I would have an effective offset of 5mm. THIS would place an additional load on the wheel bearings. (as well as cause all sorts of loud noises and burning rubber smells when the wheels hit the fenders).
I know you are talking about studs but a lot of people have hidden issues with extra force on hubs too.
I know there is not addition stress on hubs, it's the stress on the studs I am concerned about. But if it doesn't bother you run with it, I just don't like that sort of shit.
Call me paranoid, but I'm going to be changing front bearings every other summer (track duty) and control arms every three or as needed. Studs become the issue, and should be changed periodically as well.
Simple. More parts on your car, more parts to break. Especially when dealing with the most critical area of a vehicle, the only parts that come in contact with the ground and are dealing with a shitload of force before the suspension.
"Having won more road races than any other model in history, the E30 M3 is considered by many to be the world's most successful road race car." - Simply put, E30s kick ass.
i have run 40mm adapters on my datsun for about 5yrs with no problems. stock wheel size 15x7 et0, tires 205/60/15. currently 17x7.5 et40 tires 225/45/17. no problems with hubs or studs.
IG: @Baye30
FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!
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