Welding studs?

[digger]

what the heck is a fatigue load?

I kind of know what you're getting at but I work in structural steel/engineering and I've never heard of a bolt in a "fatigue load". it's going to be in shear or tension (wheel bolts probably experience both).

yes, welding a bolt will change it's properties, possibly making it either brittle or lowering the yield strength.

but it's moot since he listened and did the right thing :)

a fatigue load is just one that changes with time, in general the load whether it be shear, bending or axial on the bolt changes with time so it can crack after it sees several hundred, thousand or millions of cycles depending on how large the magnitudes are.

welding does weaken some steels but it always introduces flaws, residual stress and large stress concentrations all of which are killer if the part sees loads (and stresses) that change with time.

headbolts, rod bolts etc are all subject to fatigue loads and must be designed to withstand fatigue.

[nando]

welding is the absolute worst process for anything structural that sees fatigue loads

what the heck is a fatigue load?

I kind of know what you're getting at but I work in structural steel/engineering and I've never heard of a bolt in a "fatigue load". it's going to be in shear or tension (wheel bolts probably experience both).

yes, welding a bolt will change it's properties, possibly making it either brittle or lowering the yield strength.

but it's moot since he listened and did the right thing :)

[R3Z3N]

Everyone who has done it has died. They're not going to be able to respond here.

The result:

[digger]

welding is the absolute worst process for anything structural that sees fatigue loads

[kalib0y]

And that is one of the reasons why I sell wheel studs. Much easier to replace a damaged stud than a wheel bearing. ;)

[FLG]

Read the thread. He fixed it properly.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[spike68]

I dont understand how that can happen, but im going to assume you over tightened them to many times.
I wouldnt reccommend welding them. it just dosent sound like a good idea. I would honestly just invest the money to get the hub replaced. I had to change a bearing in which i didnt hae the tools, so i rented some (you get your money back when you return), and went to Harbor Freight grabbed a bunch of tools I needed and returned the tools when i was done.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Way to go. Glad to hear you did it the right way once. Now go enjoy before its too late in the season to be driving your e30.

[aPapester]

Replaced pretty much everything on that side, good to go, sorry fer halfass ideas, continue on

[e30austin]

I don't get why you'd even mention "240 guys" and how they do things on here. We aren't all complete hacks like some :roll:

As for your idea, go buy a new fucking hub with bearing already installed. $50 maximum. Spend the hour to install and call it a day.

[dashboardmonkey]

Everyone who has done it has died. They're not going to be able to respond here.

Sig'd

[Mr. Tasty]

Everyone who has done it has died. They're not going to be able to respond here.

lol

[FLG]

Just get a new hub/bearing and walk in the mean time. You might be able to redrill and tap the holes but chances are without proper tools youll never get it spot on correct and just wind up wasting your time.

Do it once and do it right. Especially with something so important.

[nando]

Studs aren't welded in, ever. They are pressed or threaded.

240 guys.. Lol

[e30leigh]

why not just do another set of holes in the flange. each hole being inbetween the existing boogered holes. just drill and tap the hub, or have it done... just a thought

better then welding i guess. the other thing to take into account though is the thickness of where is left to drill? i cant remember if the hub has a thickness where they drilled the holes for the wheel holes or not.