Split wheels GURUS, help wanted

[IRON-E]

I have a set of 028 RSs in size 16x7 stock, unmolested never split. The hub bore is 58.0 and bolt pattern of 5x108, et 11.

The barrels on all 4 are 5.5, centers are 0.5 and lips are 1.0. They will be filled & redrilled to make them 4x100.

Once that happens, I'd like to have them sit at 16x8 with 2inch lips & 16x9 with 3inch lips & 3inch lips.

Is there anything I'm missing here, I've searched other forums and can't quite figure out if I'm going to be able to accomplish this?
Some people have told me that the barrels are too short or that the offset is wrong, please help me understand.

And pic for referance.

[reelizmpro]

I'm no modular wheel guru but seems to me you want to basically change the lips from 1" to 2f and 3"r but if you do that, the offset stays the same at ET11 because you are only widening the outside. What you may have to do is either run flares ala Nigel or shave down the wheel hubs to raise the offset and bring it in a bit. This is why staggered setups have different offsets front/rear.

[IRON-E]

You're 100% right Barry, this is the reason why I'm asking questions, before diving into the whole rebuild.
I don't want to run flares either, since I'm probably going to shave down about 4mm from the back of the center, bringing the final offset to et15.

Someone told me, that I need smaller barrels than 5.5 to accomplish my sizes, is this correct?

[reelizmpro]

Maybe for backspacing because if you raise the offset and clear the fender, it may rub the inner body but ESM has 16x9's as well for E30 so just try to copy that wheel spec.

[IRON-E]

Maybe for backspacing because if you raise the offset and clear the fender, it may rub the inner body but ESM has 16x9's as well for E30 so just try to copy that wheel spec.

Ahhh, good thinking I'll try that.

[bmw325csi]

esm offers 16x9 et 10 and they fit nice and flush so you shouldn't really have any issues running et11.

[IRON-E]

Perfect, thanks Harry, that makes me feel a lot better but, I'm not sure if the splits work the same way?

[einstein57]

Just redrill the centers and mount the wheels up. Measure how much you have from the fender to the lip and go from there. The wheel offset calculators are a nice tool to play with.

[IRON-E]

Just redrill the centers and mount the wheels up. Measure how much you have from the fender to the lip and go from there. The wheel offset calculators are a nice tool to play with.

Kk, thanks.

[wakdog]

If you add wider lips you will subtract 6.35mm from the offset per 0.5" lip added.

For 16x8 they will be -1.7 offset and 16x9 -14.4

Basically no way you will ever get them under guards without flares...

[reelizmpro]

he's right. Given the definition of offset he is correct to say wider lips will give a negative offset since the centerline is now moved out. The backspacing is unchanged but the offset of the wheel will be lower.

[IRON-E]

Hmmm, so even with smaller or bigger barrels my offset remains the same, correct?

[8380 Labs]

If you add wider lips you will subtract 6.35mm from the offset per 0.5" lip added.

For 16x8 they will be -1.7 offset and 16x9 -14.4

this is correct.

offset is the hub mounting surface distance from the wheel's center line, so if you change the width of a wheel in any way, the offset will always change. doesn't matter if you change the barrels or the lips.

[Cletonius]

Just as devil's advocate...

You're going to fill/drill/shave the centers, change lips, and maybe change barrells?

Why not just sell these and get the modular pieces you want to build your desired set of wheels?

[Jim Lepage]

Here's a comparaison with my setup.

Your 16x7 et11 compared to my wheels ( 16x9 et08 and 16x10 et08 ).






Now after relipping to 2'' front and 3'' rear. (gives 16x8 et-2 and 16x9 et-14)





And a shot of my fitment with camber at 2.8 front and 3.4 rear.




I personnaly would go with 2.5'' lips rear.