Suspension Refresh - What Else?

[mbuse]

I have a 1993 316i touring with over 200k miles on it. I'm preparing for a suspension refresh in 2 months and I'm curious if I should be doing anything else while I'm down there. This is partially in preparation of doing a cross-country drive from SC to UT, but mostly because it's really needed. There's probably a ton I could do, but I'm mostly interested to see if there's anything I'm not thinking of that wouldn't add too much effort/time while I'm down there. Also feel free to give any advice on the work/parts list I've already got planned below!

Recent service (within last year):

1. New tires
2. New pads and rotors
3. New muffler
4. Timing belt, thermostat, belts, water pump, and oil/oil filter
5. Odometer Gear Replacement

Parts I'll be purchasing:

1. E30 OEM Suspension Refresh Kit from Blunttech: https://www.blunttech.com/shop/repla...it/e30oemsuspr
2. H&R Sport Spings: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-h-and-r-...ing-set/50406/
3. B8 Performance Plus Shock and Strut Kit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein...t/34-003350kt/
4. H&R Front And Rear Swaybar Set: https://www.blunttech.com/shop/repla...ion-kit/71406b

Here's a link to a video showing the current state of the undercarriage (from dealer I bought it from): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgGYT7Agzxw

And here's a few screenshots for those that don't want to watch the video:


And here's one last pic of the car for those who want to see the good stuff:



TIA for the help/advice!

[ehrawn]

I need to follow this thread. I recently purchased a 92 Cabrio in pretty good shape- garaged its whole life with extensive maintenance records. I had a local shop take an in-depth look at it expecting all of the rubber to be dryrotted, but the bushings seemed to be ok, for now. I’ll be tackling a full suspension refresh in the next year or so. I’m definitely interested to confirm what’s needed.

[mbuse]

I'm also considering this kit from ECS: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...e30susref3-kt/

It comes with way more parts for not much more money. I think I've read to avoid Uro parts, but it's only the upper strut mount.

[e30davie]

Anything that is not metal probably needs to be replaced.

[roguetoaster]

Trans/engine/diff mounts, brake soft lines, look at the hard brake lines just below/aft of the master cylinder for rust/corrosion, consider rebuilding the calipers (either just slide pins or everything), replace all soft fuel lines, shock & strut top mounts, fuel filter, and at least pull the fuel pump to inspect the condition.

[82eye]

what's the goal for the car ? if you just want a decent driver and a reliable car for the trip ...

Recent service (within last year):

1. New tires
2. New pads and rotors
3. New muffler
4. Timing belt, thermostat, belts, water pump, and oil/oil filter
5. Odometer Gear Replacement

1. all this is good

Parts I'll be purchasing:[LIST=1][*]E30 OEM Suspension Refresh Kit from Blunttech: https://www.blunttech.com/shop/repla...it/e30oemsuspr

this is also good

[*]H&R Sport Spings: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-h-and-r-...ing-set/50406/[*]B8 Performance Plus Shock and Strut Kit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein...t/34-003350kt/

not needed unless you wanna do some boy racer stuff or just like the look. it would normally get paired with some new wheels.

to save cash you could simply go with some good stock level shocks. sachs, kyb, and bilstien all offer great oe level shocks cheaper than sport shocks. the springs wouldn't be needed with an oe level shock.

new shocks would probably suffice and i'd check on the condition of the spring pads.

[*]H&R Front And Rear Swaybar Set: https://www.blunttech.com/shop/repla...ion-kit/71406b

simply not needed if you refresh the bushings on your current swaybars.
other things i'd look at is the condition of the rear sub and trailing arm bushings. if they are in need i'd save the cash on the sport suspension stuff and address them first.

[Panici]

Bushing refresh set looks good.
Fresh OEM rubber feels great and isn't harsh like aftermarket materials.

[82eye]

I'm also considering this kit from ECS: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...e30susref3-kt/

It comes with way more parts for not much more money. I think I've read to avoid Uro parts, but it's only the upper strut mount.

a lot of uro is garbage. i'd go meyle hd on the strut mounts or lemforder. i put lemforder on mine but there have been some iffy reviews since the last couple years.

[mbuse]

Trans/engine/diff mounts, brake soft lines, look at the hard brake lines just below/aft of the master cylinder for rust/corrosion, consider rebuilding the calipers (either just slide pins or everything), replace all soft fuel lines, shock & strut top mounts, fuel filter, and at least pull the fuel pump to inspect the condition.

Thanks for the detailed items! Seems like the engine and trans would be relatively simple to add on (diff mount bushing in that ECS kit already). I'd like to hold off on the brake and fuel system for another time, just due to time constraints, but I'll be sure to give them a really good inspection and replace anything dire while I"m under there. Putting those items at the top of my list after this work though!

Thanks for the feedback!

what's the goal for the car ? if you just want a decent driver and a reliable car for the trip ...

1. all this is good

this is also good



not needed unless you wanna do some boy racer stuff or just like the look. it would normally get paired with some new wheels.

to save cash you could simply go with some good stock level shocks. sachs, kyb, and bilstien all offer great oe level shocks cheaper than sport shocks. the springs wouldn't be needed with an oe level shock.

new shocks would probably suffice and i'd check on the condition of the spring pads.



simply not needed if you refresh the bushings on your current swaybars.
other things i'd look at is the condition of the rear sub and trailing arm bushings. if they are in need i'd save the cash on the sport suspension stuff and address them first.

Goal for the car is to have an OEM+ feel. I want something that handles well on fun, mountain roads, but no intentions of ever tracking or auto-crossing the car. I also really like the look of this suspension set-up with 15" basketweaves that I've seen on other tourings.

I can afford the Bilstein/H&R kit so I feel like it's a good time to do it with the bushings. Wheels will eventually get swapped to some 15" basketweaves, but since I just put those tires on it to make it safe to drive (car had 16 year old tires when I bought it), it feels wasteful to swap the wheels now.

The main reason for the new sway bars was that the current ones are heavily rusted. Maybe I'll inspect them a little closer and see if I can just refurb them.

Definitely planning to do the rear sub and trailing arm bushings while I'm down there!

a lot of uro is garbage. i'd go meyle hd on the strut mounts or lemforder. i put lemforder on mine but there have been some iffy reviews since the last couple years.

I'll plan to swap those out for some Meyle HD mounts as I've read good things on those.



Thanks for all the feedback y'all!

[Fixcinater]

Having gone through a refresh on my California since new 250K '89 325i, I'd skip anything that won't stop the trip if it fails, and concentrate on those items that could cause a tow. If your shocks are blown, sure, replace those but otherwise let 'er ride, I'd say.

-All the rubber in the engine bay that you can afford to replace, unless it's obviously new. Rad hoses, vacuum lines, soft fuel lines, intake tubes, all that stuff can be impossible to find even in a mid-size Midwest city on short notice. At least buy it and throw in the back if you don't have time to replace before the trip.

-Brake rubber lines were splitting and dry rotted. Definitely replace or at least buy the lines and fluid and carry those, you could swap on trip if something pops.

-Brake master was plugged full of crap and didn't work correctly, sometimes just went to floor. Definitely clean out and look at the internals or just replace.

-Brake caliper rebuild kit for each wheel just so you have the parts in case some of the rubber isn't up to snuff while you are replacing pads. They are cheap and could get used down the line when you have more time.

-Take off the exhaust and get a good look at the guibo/CSB and U-joint near the diff, look for any major play. Same for half-shafts.

-Front wheel bearings aren't a horrible job (IMO) and would give some peace of mind for a big trip.

-Exhaust hanger seems to be missing, so ordering those 2/3 pieces would quiet things down and keep the new exhaust in the right spot.

-I'd also replace fuel pump and filter, or at least carry a spare filter. Replace any/all cracked lines back under the rear seat and in front of the driver's rear wheel near the filter. Could be hard to get a pump in Wichita, KS.

[benfidar]

I did my springs and struts (b8 Bilsteins, H&R springs, top hats etc.) and I discovered that my lower control arm ball joints were shot. Shocks and springs are a lot of labor to remove and LCAs and LCA bushings were not a lot of money. While you are in there, why not. Made a difference in steering feel for sure.