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I trashed my wheel bearing. What should I do different?

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    I trashed my wheel bearing. What should I do different?

    I’m pretty sure I did a stupid thing. I’ll accept that. I installed my rear hub into a brand new wheel bearing with a mallet and wood block. Once the hub was driven in, I grabbed on to it and it moved. It didn’t just shift a little. It rocked back and forth.

    The video below shows how bad it is and a little more on how I installed it.

    I know that I’ll have to wrestle this thing back apart and put in a new wheel bearing, but I DO NOT want to repeat this mistake. Should I not use a hammer to drive it in? Should I just be more careful (like that’ll happen)? Any thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated.

    Hopefully someone else learns from my gorilla brain tactics.

    #2
    Yes- you did a stupid thing

    You're answering your own question.

    No impacts on bearings.. Highly recommend taking it to a local shop and having them press it in.

    I wouldn't be surprised if the bearing race is stuck to the hub now. Probably gonna have to press the up out, cut the race and press in a new bearing, then the hub

    RIP
    Originally posted by wholepailofwater
    Q
    :devil:


    WTB: Dove Grey e36 Front Door Panels (2 door)

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      #3
      Sounds like I’m in for a good time. I’ll probably update once I get it off.

      Getting out my war paint now.

      Comment


        #4
        Get a proper wheelbearing removal and install tool $70 from Amazon etc

        when you push the hub you need to support at the inner race with the correct size drift
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #5
          I’m thinking I’ll loan the hub removal/bearing install tool from O’Reilly’s.

          Seems like it’ll work. Can’t hurt to try especially because it’s free.

          Comment


            #6
            Experience is gained directly after it was needed.

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              #7
              I used the Habor Freight 'Front Wheel Drive Bearing Kit' for front and rear bearing removal/install with no problems. And you manage to find all kinds of uses for the various odds and ends that come with the kit.
              Looks like it is $120 right now, but I think you can get it for ~$80 on sale.

              Comment


                #8
                Maybe I'm an idiot too. It is my understanding some play is expected, it won't go away until the axle is installed and torqued. If you have issues once the axle is installed that'd be concerning, otherwise I would just send it...
                '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                Turbo: ?whp/?ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
                  Maybe I'm an idiot too. It is my understanding some play is expected, it won't go away until the axle is installed and torqued. If you have issues once the axle is installed that'd be concerning, otherwise I would just send it...
                  That's true in some applications, but it would be very very little movement. This is excessive
                  Originally posted by wholepailofwater
                  Q
                  :devil:


                  WTB: Dove Grey e36 Front Door Panels (2 door)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by MrBurgundy View Post

                    That's true in some applications, but it would be very very little movement. This is excessive
                    Can you share what you think is damaged in this situation? the seal integrity? Broken or bent cage(s)?
                    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                    Turbo: ?whp/?ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                    Comment


                      #11
                      for starters i don't think the hub has been installed all the way yet as it needs to be pressed far enough in so that it goes through both inner races (inboard and outboard) to get rid of play. hammering it in without supporting both the inner races may pull the bearing apart i.e inboard inner race may separate . There is a slight chance it may not be damaged but bearings are cheap so why risk it
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What do I think about this? I think you did a stupid thing.

                        That being said, I've done the exact same stupid thig before. The correct way to do it is either with a press or a bearing tool (as mentioned above). You can press the outer race into the trailing arm as long as you're just pushing on the outer race. The back side of the inner race needs to be supported as you press the hub into the bearing. To make things easier, you can feeze the hub to make it smaller.

                        Good luck!
                        sigpic
                        1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                        1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
                        1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 4tDX View Post
                          I used the Habor Freight 'Front Wheel Drive Bearing Kit' for front and rear bearing removal/install with no problems.
                          I’m assuming I’ll still need a separate hub tool?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Looking at FAG bearings on FCP and they have two different ones.

                            https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-33416762317

                            https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ar-33411124358

                            Both say that they’ll fit a 325e which is essentially what I have. I’ve found that parts between the 325 and 325e are basically 100% interchangeable. Anyone have some niche knowledge on this? I’d just rather spend $60 vs $90 (buying for both sides in case I f’d up the other bearing while pounding it in).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Geez, looks like everything is getting more expensive by A LOT. I think I paid $60-70 for this kit 5-6 years ago. https://www.harborfreight.com/front-...-pc-63728.html I guess if you got those 20% coupons they normally have it will be a little better.

                              In any event, no need to seek a shop to do this, that kit (or similar) is all you will ever need and more. when pressing the bearing, any bearing use this thought process and you will never mess up the job. You can not ever stress balls/rollers against bearing races...by pounding, pressing or otherwise. Pressing outer bearing race in the hub - all and any force is only applied to the hub and the outer race. Pressing the flange into the inner race - all force is applied against the inner race and the flange body. That simple. Ballls/rollers are always left at rest with no stress against them. Think about it a little and do the job, it's no harder than 20 piece puzzle. That tool has all sized flanges and cylinders to do any car you'd ever own.
                              Last edited by zaq123; 01-21-2022, 09:10 PM.

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