HELP!!! No crank, no start, ignition keeps locking the starting position!!

[Troni456]

I bought my 1987 325e as basically a chicken coupe (coop but its a coupe, anyways) and it was literally just a rolling shell. Im assuming the last guy was running a chop shop because not only was the front subframe missing but so was the engine, tranny (auto), interior trim and some bits and bobs i guess. So far in the last few months i’ve been putting it back together I hooked up an m20b27 w/auto tranny and all for the time being and now im at the point where im ready to get the first start out of the way.
While trying to do that i have;
- Power to interior lights and dash,
- fuel pump does not go unless i jump it from the relay,
- when the key is in the first detent nothing, second detent lights on dash, 3rd detent same as second and finally when i crank it nothing and when it goes back to the 3rd detent it doesn’t allow me to crank it again unless i turn the key all the way back to the first detent.

now i’ve searched everywhere, read the Bentley manual, tried AI and still nothing.

i found im getting 12v to the starter ignition wire when in the second and 3rd detent which is throwing me off but once again im not too sure why it would do that.

the starter does go when i put 12v straight to it (bench testing ON the car) but it doesn’t want to do anything from the ignition…

if anyone has some insight that would be fantastic since these electrical gremlins aren’t helping to motivate me to keep working on this car :(

[BadDays]

It sounds like you have electrical gremlins attacking your BMW.

First off: 12 volts to the starter wire from the accessories and run position of the ignition barrel is normal, In the ETM it explains that it's 12V Hot when in run or accessories position for ignition and fuel delivery You have to take the key to the first position when you're shutting off the car so don't worry about this!

Secondly: You might have a wiring fault itself if you're not hearing the fuel pump prime itself when you do turn the key to the second position, Start with the basics. Is the fuse good? Fuse 11/10 for Fuel Delivery. Is the relay cooked? If it is, You're not getting the fuel pump activated unless you jump the pins like you said. Also note that automatic cars have a netural safety switch that will disable the car, You can get away with this by joining the two brown wires together from the safety switch to see if that's causing your problem. (It's a E28 thing but it should apply here) Finally, You might have damaged wiring that is not letting the relay terminals properly connect to the fuel pump relay or damaged wiring to the fuel pump itself.

Third: Are we actually getting fuel to the fuel rail if everything else checks out? 87 is the final year of dual fuel pump bullshit so make sure that both pumps are functional, Only the high pressure one (Usually located under the car next to the driver's rear wheel) will actually deliver the fuel. The In tank Pump is a low pressure transfer Pump. This is only if you can actually get the car to crank. However as for Ignition, Ensure that the cap and rotor are not screwed up along with plug wires. I can only give you so much due to having a M10 and not an M20 from my experience.

AI is complete Horse dookie but hopefully this helps!