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Car runs super rich post motor swap - ideas?

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    #16
    Originally posted by george graves View Post
    How's your o2 sensor? Do you have a cylinder not firing?
    It sounds like there may be a miss at low RPMs. The car revs all the way up to the redline it just won't idle and it's running rich at low rpms.
    "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

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      #17
      sounds like a vacuum leak.
      Originally posted by BillBrasky
      E36's are the Stephen Baldwin of the 3 series family. They barely hold everything together and they only sold a lot because of the popularity of their older sibling.
      1991 318i Alpine II - S50/5-lug swapped - track car
      1989 325i Cirrusblau - Daily
      1970 2500 - Malaga over Grey Cloth
      2012 F350 6.7PSD

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        #18
        The valve cover to TB hose is new - all hoses to the charcoal cannister are tight - the hose to the brake booster is present. What else is there?

        The fuel lines are correct. The spark plugges are fouled.
        "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

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          #19
          Originally posted by Turf1600 View Post
          Swapped AFM made no difference. I'm wondering if I mixed up the fuel line and the return.
          if you did that it wouldn't start unless your FPR is blown.

          have you put in a new coolant sensor yet? that is most likely to make your car run very rich, other than the AFM.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #20
            Now's about the time I'd go drive the piss out of it to get a better feel for what it's doing.
            Originally posted by Matt-B
            hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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              #21
              I swapped one of the sensors - the one nearest the front of the engine bay. I can't get to the other one. Which controls the ECU?
              "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

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                #22
                Originally posted by Turf1600 View Post
                The valve cover to TB hose is new - all hoses to the charcoal cannister are tight - the hose to the brake booster is present. What else is there?

                The fuel lines are correct. The spark plugges are fouled.
                spray carb cleaner around that fucking vent tube that connects the intake to the crankcase while its running to check for leaks. in fact spray that shit everywhere at idle.. did you remove the intake when you swapped?
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                  #23
                  I think it's the other one - blue connector?
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Turf1600 View Post
                    I swapped one of the sensors - the one nearest the front of the engine bay. I can't get to the other one. Which controls the ECU?
                    Disconnect one of the sensors while the key is in ON position, watch the temp gauge. It will be the one that doesn't affect the temp gauge.
                    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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                      #25
                      I got her going - but I might be cheating. I reconnected some things and drive her around - definately sounded better but still wouldn't "idle" unless I held my foot on the gas - but it still ran smoothly @900 rpms with no more gas smell. I just adjusted the cable to make it idle at 900 and voila...running car. I also changed the cheap autolite plugs to busch platinum fours.
                      "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

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                        #26
                        Platinums blow in my experience - You'll run nice for about 200 miles - then they rob you of power. Keep an eye (or butt dyno) on them.
                        Originally posted by Matt-B
                        hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                          #27
                          did you ever change the coolant sensor? I don't know how I can be more clear. :p

                          Your TPS is probably misadjusted as well, since you messed with the throttle stop. that means the ICV doesn't turn on, which is likely why it died unless you held open the throttle.

                          plus, yeah - why are people still wasting money on platinums? I guess they're easier to find these days. plus multiple tip/v-groove/splitfire spark plugs = LOL
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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                            #28
                            It was the AFM.
                            "We praise or find fault, depending on which of the two provides more opportunity for our powers of judgement to shine."

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                              #29
                              yay, knew it!
                              88 325ic ~~~> Rusty and ugly
                              85 E ~~~> RIP

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