am i fucked?!

[88e30is]

So basically it would be tighten all to 22lb per bolt pattern order, then half turn in order then another half turn in order again.

[ben312]

22lbs? I thought the 45lbs they told me was low. That can't be right. I am using said bolts, and if its lose enough to be mixing oil and water at 45lbs then no way is 22lbs enough. They are still stretch bolts and they didn't even stretch until after 40 something pounds. And 1
180 turn aka 2 90 turns is not equal to the missing 10lbs. Where did u get this info? It seems very iffy to me. Plus 22lbs is very very low. That can't be more then 1 or 2 turns past finger tight. Doesn't seem very tight for a seal.

[ben312]

[quote=88e30is;1690755]As of motor all data:

quote]
not here right?

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~C8000~R0~OD~N/0/34870063/42416527

not here right? ^^^ doesn't even have BMW in the 1987 year class

[clavinZERO]

That extra half a turn adds quite a bit more to the final torque.

[88e30is]

Motoralldata.com is where I got the info. It seems that they manufactured a new type of head bolt and that is the specs for it.

[ben312]

An extra half turn does add a lot of torque. But I don't think a half turn is equal to more then 20lbs difference we have. If I'm mixing oil and water at 45lb and 1/8th turn then 22lb and 1/4th turn doesn't sound right to me. I'm not doubting what your saying, but either I have different bolts or their info is off

[rThor432]

An extra half turn does add a lot of torque. But I don't think a half turn is equal to more then 20lbs difference we have. If I'm mixing oil and water at 45lb and 1/8th turn then 22lb and 1/4th turn doesn't sound right to me. I'm not doubting what your saying, but either I have different bolts or their info is off

It isnt necessarily as much about the final torque on the headbolts as it is about the procedure to get there. The 22, 90*, 90* is meant to crush the headgasket in an even gradual manner. You might be able to run the headbolts back out and re-torque them properly, but probably not. That is possible in some cases and while it isnt ideal, it might be better for you than doing the whole job again.

[ben312]

I did a gradual pattern. Go to 30lbs let sit for 30min then go 45lbs run car, then re check, and adjust bolts if needed, then add final 1/8th turn. That's what I followed and what my auto zone print out said. Last night I re check and a few had backed out less then a 1/8 turn from torque. Fixed and added extra 1/4 turn. This should fix the problem.

[gtarwiz]

As of motor all data:

INSTALLING CYLINDER HEAD :

NOTE :
An improved cylinder head bolt has been introduced for use in the M20 engine. The new head bolt, designated ASA 14, is grade 10.9 and is identified by the Torx head and a black surface finish. Whenever engine repairs necessitate cylinder head removal, all 14 old style head bolts should be replaced with the ASA 14 bolts. Further, in instances of head bolt damage (e.g. head broken off), all 14 head bolts should be replaced one by one without removing the cylinder head. The waiting and running time requirements are no longer used.

The new ASA 14 head bolt has revised expansion properties which require new torque angle values.
Step 1 - Torque all bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft.lbs.) .
Step 2 - Torque angle all bolts 90°.
Step 3 - Torque angle all bolts 90° .

CAUTION : Under no circumstances should the old and new head bolts be mixed in one engine. Remove oil and debris from bolt holes. If not, improper values or damage may result.

This is also in the Bentley (I am changing my head gasket right now)

You really should consider doing the process over again with something that isnt from autozone. I would really only trust OE head bolts or ARP head studs. I am personally going with the head studs but I am not keeping my car NA for to long.

Did you get your head resurfaced when you originally pulled it? Check for cracks?

[RickSloan]

it is really important and a detail that has been left out about the condition of the head. Also the 22, 90 90 is the proper way to tighten the head bolts on an m20. Autozone could be wrong but whats been said by the engineers is probably right and why you have a leak and others that have done it dont.

Im not trying to sound like an ass just stating the truth.

hope it works out

[10Toes]

Is your head cracked?

[Leaf]

So basically it would be tighten all to 22lb per bolt pattern order, then half turn in order then another half turn in order again.

22lbs? Am I reading that right? That seems fucking light.

[ben312]

No the head is not cracked and was checked with a leveler for warps. The bolts where ordered from bavauto.

[rThor432]

I did a gradual pattern. Go to 30lbs let sit for 30min then go 45lbs run car, then re check, and adjust bolts if needed, then add final 1/8th turn.

Well, even with the graduated bolt tightening in the proper pattern those specs are wrong according to BMW's literature. Very wrong. I will say though that torque specs vary depending on the particular gasket used, and because that is the case the box or whatever the gasket came in should have specs specifically for the gasket you used.

Tightening them an extra 1/4 could fix the problem (a 3.2% chance), but it will most likely stress the gasket even more where it is failing/failed and will make your problem worse. You have to remove the bolts and retighten them properly if you want to have any hope of fixing the car. The gasket is likely destroyed and you will need to do the process again to fix it.

Just tossing that out there.

[ben312]

Alright so here is my next question (I figure the answer is no but wana make sure) can I just back the bolt out to 22lbs? Or since they havew been pushed to 45lbs do I need new ones?