this BAR program is EXCATLY the kind of shit that sent California's econ to the shitter. NJ is on its way down to meet it
To Californians. Catyletic Converters...
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I Say FUCK CA Smog...we're all gonna die some day...if anything....we'll adapt the the changes...we can learn how to breathe carbon dioxide :)(SOLD) 1988 327i Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=155086
1970 Gruppe 2 2902 M20 Turbo Build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=373891Comment
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davesport 100cpi cats. they can handle the heat rotaries throw at them, so even a turbo m20 should be easily handled. they are pretty damn cheap. and they flow very well, the different between them and a straight pipe is negligible.
AWD > RWDComment
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CA has STRICT cat laws...they have to be CA legal cats to use them.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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Sorry for bringing this up...but my cat is BAD! its got a loud Scratching noise coming from it whenever i'm off the throttle. Its coming directly from it. So...im looking for a replacement. The magnaflow cats wont ship to CA it says. Do the smog people really check the actual cat? to see if its "CA Legal"? I need some advice. What should i get. Also...our "downpipes" from the exhaust manifold are 2" right? so it'd be dual inlet 2" and 2 out?(SOLD) 1988 327i Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=155086
1970 Gruppe 2 2902 M20 Turbo Build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=373891Comment
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not worried about smog. I'm worried about the ANNOYING noise. that pierces my ears. and is emberassing.(SOLD) 1988 327i Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=155086
1970 Gruppe 2 2902 M20 Turbo Build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=373891Comment
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I want to run a cat tho.(SOLD) 1988 327i Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=155086
1970 Gruppe 2 2902 M20 Turbo Build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=373891Comment
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Magnaflow makes universal AND CA specific cats, you can call them and they'll tell you which one you need or use their online tool to figure it out.
Depends on the smog place, if they care about their job/place they will look at the numbers on the cat to verify it's the correct one.Last edited by Jean; 08-07-2010, 04:54 PM.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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Ok - so you suspect that your cat is just about toast and you mentioned you did a 2.7i w/ cam not too long ago. A few questions....Sorry for bringing this up...but my cat is BAD! its got a loud Scratching noise coming from it whenever i'm off the throttle. Its coming directly from it. So...im looking for a replacement. The magnaflow cats wont ship to CA it says. Do the smog people really check the actual cat? to see if its "CA Legal"? I need some advice. What should i get. Also...our "downpipes" from the exhaust manifold are 2" right? so it'd be dual inlet 2" and 2 out?
1. What all did you do for this 2.7? A complete & fresh rebuild or pieced-together used stuff?
2. What ancillary components were replaced?
3. Just how close to failing was your car at the last smog? Within single digits of the maximum allowable?
4. Was it hot out that day and did you warm up the car thoroughly prior to the test?
5. What kind of pre-test prep did you do before that last smog test?
-Valve adjustment?
-Fresh oil & filter?
-Check/repair any vacuum leaks?
-Seafoam fuel treatment?
-91, 89 or 87 octane in the tank?
-Is your clutch fan and thermostat functioning properly?
-Age/mileage on ignition system (coil, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, etc.)
6. Did you go to a "test only" shop or one that does smog repairs too? The latter may try to screw you by making your car fail - offer a repair to get some $ from you - then voila! Car passes. (this actually happened to my father once on a Honda Accord with 50K miles)
Earlier this year (May to be exact) I had to deal with getting my E30 to pass a smog test. A couple years ago it was very close to failing despite having a relatively new universal cat installed. This year, having the same concerns you do, I did some homework before going in and here's what I learned....
Call around to TEST ONLY facilities and ask about doing a pre-test. These are legal in the state of California and typically shouldn't cost as much as a normal "official" test. Essentially what they do is smog your car but the results aren't wired off to the DMV afterwards. They give you a print out of the results and you can see what areas of the tailpipe readings is close to failing..the HC (hydrocarbons), CO (carbon monoxide) or the NO (nitrogen oxide).
Two years ago my smog test results showed very high readings for HC at 15mph (just a couple points away from failing) while the CO and NO readings were well within passing range. What I learned from talking with a couple of mechanics, as well as some online research, was that high HC readings usually are the result of worn or failing ignition system components. Since I was not sure of the actual age/mileage of these parts I decided to replace the plugs, plug wires, coil and cap & rotor. I also put in a new O2 sensor while I was at it. Changing these out knocked down the numbers of the HCs for both 15mph and 25mph considerably....while CO were good but the NO was getting close (most likely a tired catalytic converter....these universal things are junk).
If your NO (NOx) readings are suspect, the culprit can be: high combustion temps...like 2,400F+...the result of lean mixture, improperly functioning cooling system, malfuntioning oxygen sensor, spark advance issues, failing catalytic converter.
Excessive CO readings are the result of: dirty air filter, faulty O2 sensor, bad thermostat (tricking the engine to either richen or lean the fuel/air mix to compensate).
In addition to the above-mentioned repairs, I also did the usual stuff you should consider standard practice when smogging an E30 in California....fresh oil & filter, new air filter, two cans of Seafoam (one in the tank, the other siphoned through the intake at the throttle body), made sure no vacuum leaks existed, sprayed the engine with some Simple Green and hosed it off (a clean engine is less likely to raise the test tech's eyebrows vs. a dirty looking engine), and lastly I went for a 30 minute drive and kept the engine revs up most of the time to get the cat hot. Thankfully there were no other cars being tested when I arrived so the car was promptly put on the rollers and tested before the car cooled.
As for California-legal replacement catalytic converters, they are out there and you can buy them....just do some research. Magnaflow makes one, it is part #36037 which is a single 2" inlet and dual 2.5" outlets, has one O2 sensor port and a ceramic honeycomb substrate which meets CARB standards. Various vendors carry this item and prices vary accordingly. The best price I found was at http://www.performancepeddler.com/. Another vendor to research is http://www.drivewire.com/. Whatever you do, don't buy from Magnaflow directly....their prices are highway robbery! To validate that is part is CARB legal, here is the offical document from the Air Resources Board...complete with Executive Order number to boot: http://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/de...o/D-193-86.pdf
I hope this long-winded post has answered some of your questions/concerns.
JonRides...
1991 325i - sold :(
2004 2WD Frontier King Cab
RIP #17 Jules BianchiComment
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^ thanks for the info !Ok - so you suspect that your cat is just about toast and you mentioned you did a 2.7i w/ cam not too long ago. A few questions....
1. What all did you do for this 2.7? A complete & fresh rebuild or pieced-together used stuff?
2. What ancillary components were replaced?
3. Just how close to failing was your car at the last smog? Within single digits of the maximum allowable?
4. Was it hot out that day and did you warm up the car thoroughly prior to the test?
5. What kind of pre-test prep did you do before that last smog test?
-Valve adjustment?
-Fresh oil & filter?
-Check/repair any vacuum leaks?
-Seafoam fuel treatment?
-91, 89 or 87 octane in the tank?
-Is your clutch fan and thermostat functioning properly?
-Age/mileage on ignition system (coil, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, etc.)
6. Did you go to a "test only" shop or one that does smog repairs too? The latter may try to screw you by making your car fail - offer a repair to get some $ from you - then voila! Car passes. (this actually happened to my father once on a Honda Accord with 50K miles)
Earlier this year (May to be exact) I had to deal with getting my E30 to pass a smog test. A couple years ago it was very close to failing despite having a relatively new universal cat installed. This year, having the same concerns you do, I did some homework before going in and here's what I learned....
Call around to TEST ONLY facilities and ask about doing a pre-test. These are legal in the state of California and typically shouldn't cost as much as a normal "official" test. Essentially what they do is smog your car but the results aren't wired off to the DMV afterwards. They give you a print out of the results and you can see what areas of the tailpipe readings is close to failing..the HC (hydrocarbons), CO (carbon monoxide) or the NO (nitrogen oxide).
Two years ago my smog test results showed very high readings for HC at 15mph (just a couple points away from failing) while the CO and NO readings were well within passing range. What I learned from talking with a couple of mechanics, as well as some online research, was that high HC readings usually are the result of worn or failing ignition system components. Since I was not sure of the actual age/mileage of these parts I decided to replace the plugs, plug wires, coil and cap & rotor. I also put in a new O2 sensor while I was at it. Changing these out knocked down the numbers of the HCs for both 15mph and 25mph considerably....while CO were good but the NO was getting close (most likely a tired catalytic converter....these universal things are junk).
If your NO (NOx) readings are suspect, the culprit can be: high combustion temps...like 2,400F+...the result of lean mixture, improperly functioning cooling system, malfuntioning oxygen sensor, spark advance issues, failing catalytic converter.
Excessive CO readings are the result of: dirty air filter, faulty O2 sensor, bad thermostat (tricking the engine to either richen or lean the fuel/air mix to compensate).
In addition to the above-mentioned repairs, I also did the usual stuff you should consider standard practice when smogging an E30 in California....fresh oil & filter, new air filter, two cans of Seafoam (one in the tank, the other siphoned through the intake at the throttle body), made sure no vacuum leaks existed, sprayed the engine with some Simple Green and hosed it off (a clean engine is less likely to raise the test tech's eyebrows vs. a dirty looking engine), and lastly I went for a 30 minute drive and kept the engine revs up most of the time to get the cat hot. Thankfully there were no other cars being tested when I arrived so the car was promptly put on the rollers and tested before the car cooled.
As for California-legal replacement catalytic converters, they are out there and you can buy them....just do some research. Magnaflow makes one, it is part #36037 which is a single 2" inlet and dual 2.5" outlets, has one O2 sensor port and a ceramic honeycomb substrate which meets CARB standards. Various vendors carry this item and prices vary accordingly. The best price I found was at http://www.performancepeddler.com/. Another vendor to research is http://www.drivewire.com/. Whatever you do, don't buy from Magnaflow directly....their prices are highway robbery! To validate that is part is CARB legal, here is the offical document from the Air Resources Board...complete with Executive Order number to boot: http://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/de...o/D-193-86.pdf
I hope this long-winded post has answered some of your questions/concerns.
JonComment
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Matt
Originally posted by slammin.e28guyI pack my CD player with asbestos. Those mother fuckers pay dearly for stealing my shit.Originally posted by kronustry whacking parts of the motor with a wrench while yelling "YOU WANT SUMMA DIS? HUH?"Originally posted by chadthestampedeThis is like a reverse build thread; it starts out nice and gets shitty.Comment
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I also got my magnaflow ca cat from http://www.performancepeddler.com/ , fast shipping and great price. Numbers were super low.
Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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you need to buy a replacement one specific to the m20 on their website.Sorry for bringing this up...but my cat is BAD! its got a loud Scratching noise coming from it whenever i'm off the throttle. Its coming directly from it. So...im looking for a replacement. The magnaflow cats wont ship to CA it says. Do the smog people really check the actual cat? to see if its "CA Legal"? I need some advice. What should i get. Also...our "downpipes" from the exhaust manifold are 2" right? so it'd be dual inlet 2" and 2 out?
that is why they will not ship you one that is not BAR/CARB legal becuase it is not legal in CA...
If you really want a "off road use only" one, check ebay and see if somebody will ship to you in CA.Comment


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