Quick! I need your advice R3V!

[KenC]

thats up to you, you don't need to do both sides at the same time.

diy for rebuild http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...er-Rebuild.htm


It's a bit of a pain in the ass fyi.

You think rebuilding a caliper is a PITA!? It's one of the easiest jobs. They're single piston. Just one seal, one dust boot.

Why not just extract the bleeder screw and get a new one?

[dannyyisntt]

If it's your first time rebuilding them it can be a PITA. For somebody else it's like a difficulty lvl 2 out of 10

[dannyyisntt]

found shiboujin's rebuild video he made..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6iyGdfMixw&feature=player_embedded#at=453

[Heysüß]

You think rebuilding a caliper is a PITA!? It's one of the easiest jobs. They're single piston. Just one seal, one dust boot.

Why not just extract the bleeder screw and get a new one?

about halfway through my bitching I wrote why I couldn't:

The old man was too impatient and snapped off the extractor screw as well before the pb blaster had had any time to do its thang. :(

[Heysüß]

found shiboujin's rebuild video he made..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6iyG...mbedded#at=453

sweeeeeeeeetness!!! :nice:

[nomansland92]

I snapped my driver side to i just bled it through the line and compressed the piston and it seamed to get all the air out because its work just fine ever since. But not a permanent fix

[Simon S]

plus one for rebuilding.
Drill the fucker out. Take your time and periodically spray/rinse/cool with WD40. Run a tap through. New bleeder screw. Done.

Sounds like you could get by w/out new seals even - but seal kits pretty cheap - and now that I think of it, if you did drill out the broken screw, I'd want to dismantle and rebuild just to be sure no metal shavings were inside the caliper. (potential to damage piston surfaces)

Rebuilding is kind of a pain, but it is also rewarding when the job is done. (and WAY cheaper)

Good luck. Don't be too hard on the old man.

[bimma360]

To me... a "remanufactured" caliper is as good as new. The rears from bavauto are $64 a piece which includes the refundable $20 core charge. All said and done it will run you $128 for two calipers and about $15 for shipping.... that puts you at $143 up front, and $103 after you get your core charge back.

OR spend the extra $7 bucks to qualify for free shipping at the $150 mark and walk away with 2 basically new calipers, and another $22 worth of stuff you may need for $110.

I remember what its like to be in college. But 100 bucks for basically new calipers is pretty cheap, and is def worth saving you the hassle.

[KirkerBezerker]

c.

dont' bother with a pair of used ones.

Don't waste anyones time here. You don't know shit about cars. Now go buy another merc to please you girlfriend.

[Heysüß]

To me... a "remanufactured" caliper is as good as new. The rears from bavauto are $64 a piece which includes the refundable $20 core charge. All said and done it will run you $128 for two calipers and about $15 for shipping.... that puts you at $143 up front, and $103 after you get your core charge back.

OR spend the extra $7 bucks to qualify for free shipping at the $150 mark and walk away with 2 basically new calipers, and another $22 worth of stuff you may need for $110.

I remember what its like to be in college. But 100 bucks for basically new calipers is pretty cheap, and is def worth saving you the hassle.

wow, i definitely like the way this route sounds. Unless anyone can give me a good reason to not buy these "remanufactured" calipers I may just buy them. Thanks man!

[rightcoastbias]

wow, i definitely like the way this route sounds. Unless anyone can give me a good reason to not buy these "remanufactured" calipers I may just buy them. Thanks man!

Jesus,
Go easy on your dad. He got the subframe out. :hitler: I've watched Andy rebuild many VW calipers. They're not cake, but it works. My vote is purchase a matching (Girling or ATE) junkyard caliper ($15) and order two Pelican Rebuild Kits ($7.50 ea).

Sorry about the screw extractor fail.

[Heysüß]

Jesus,
Go easy on your dad. He got the subframe out. :hitler: I've watched Andy rebuild many VW calipers. They're not cake, but it works. My vote is purchase a matching (Girling or ATE) junkyard caliper ($15) and order two Pelican Rebuild Kits ($7.50 ea).

Sorry about the screw extractor fail.

I know, he helped a lot. I just didn't like that I got yelled at when he was the one that snapped both the valve and extractor screw.

[Heysüß]

What probably made me snap was when he suggested drilling out and threading a bigger hole and replacing it with a bigger bleeding valve. It may work but you know how much of a girly scaredy cat I am when it comes to doing stuff like that Gabe.

[StereoInstaller1]

I figure it like this: if you have to bleed the brakes, it isn't much more work to rebuild all the calipers, flush the fluid and clean the reservoir.

EDIT: Find yourself a garage buddy or three. Find an E30 buddy if possible.

[nando]

the napa calipers are very nice. can't go wrong there - same ones BMA sells.

spending money on a junkyard caliper and the wasting of time seems silly to me when the caliper, basically brand new, is $40. after you pay shipping, wait for it to arrive, spend an hour or more pulling a caliper of questionable history out of a junkyard car, what did you really save? and you'll still have a dirty, grungy old caliper, even if the seals are new.

With the rebuilt one, you pull it out of the box, put a new pad in, and bolt it to the car. done. and the best part is, you can drive down to the store and get one, right now..