Front rotor allen bolt stripped, now what?

[Eecen]

Torch > penetrent

[nando]

lol, you say that now... if you plan on using one of these, make sure you have AT LEAST 5 extra bits lying around

I've had an electric impact driver for a few years now, I've never broken a bit?

[Farbin Kaiber]

I have found that not using a cheap ass Harbor Freight Impact Screwdriver & Tips will also prevent this.

[Hick]

Torch > penetrent

+99999999999

Also, as for the bits, it never fails. Even 'nice' crapsman bits break on me

[nando]

you suck :p

I dunno, I don't have anything special - some from the local hardware store (that are probably from HF anyway), some random ones, and some black and decker bits that came from my wife's toolbox before we were married. Most of them have seen a lot of use, too.

[delatlanta1281]

I have found that not using a cheap ass Harbor Freight Impact Screwdriver & Tips will also prevent this.

+1 on the impact, but as far as bits go, you will never know what you are getting. Manufacturers outsource 100% of their bits... even Vermont American does now. Cost>Quality.

[bimmer630]

The easiest way around this is to just beat on the back of the rotor on the opposite side of the hold down screw. Wear safety goggles. The rotor will break at the area where the hold down goes through, and once you get all the shattered parts of rotor off from around the screw, you can now put vice grips on it and work it out. Might need penetrant/heat but usually not.

Sheesh havent any of you guys worked in a flatrate shop?

[Nick_S]

I would soak the remaining bit of the screw in PB, give it some heat and grab with some vice grips. Or get an easy-out.... +1 on anti-seize. Any bolt or screw I take out of my car gets wire wheeled and a nice coat of anti-seize. Good luck :up:

[foofopps]

Yeah I got the screw out right away with vice grips, no problemo.

[Mossman]

The easiest way around this is to just beat on the back of the rotor on the opposite side of the hold down screw. Wear safety goggles. The rotor will break at the area where the hold down goes through, and once you get all the shattered parts of rotor off from around the screw, you can now put vice grips on it and work it out. Might need penetrant/heat but usually not.

Sheesh havent any of you guys worked in a flatrate shop?

This man speaks the truth, a decent sized hammer makes quick work of the rotor, throw a lug bolt in there to catch it when you smash it off though. Half the time it splits in half around the annoying rotor set screw too, so you can smack off the other half that's hanging on for dear life and remove the screw by hand or with some pliers.

I also have a beat to shit torx bit that is totally useless for any task other than hammering into 5mm allen head bolts and making short work of it. I generally give it a quick full blast with 1/2" impact with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, pretty deadly combo.

it's insane how much better the 6mm ones on the newer bimmers are, it's harder to strip one of those than it is to not strip a 5mm e30 one, and that's pretty hard.

[xAZxE30x]

EZ out.

works every time!

[Roysneon]

Just had to do the same thing, drilled that bish out.

[sweet6e30]

u dont even need those fucking things. If your worring about them , you must be a fan of rebecca black!

[KenC]

u dont even need those fucking things. If your worring about them , you must be a fan of rebecca black!

Unless you have studs, the rotor won't stay on the edge of the hub because of the bevel.

[Charlie]

15 seconds with a dremel and a flathead screwdriver, seriously, this isn't hard.

-Charlie