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how to break in rebuilt motor???

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    #16
    When the Subaru STi's came out, they told you not to take it past 4rpm for the first thousand miles lol. Reason?

    1991 325iS turbo

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      #17
      Probably didn't want drivers boosting during break in. From their perspective, it doesn't hurt to play it safe.
      "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

      85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
      88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
      89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
      91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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        #18
        I'm going to do what my piston guy tells me to do.
        Yours truly,
        Rich
        sigpic
        Originally posted by Rigmaster
        you kids get off my lawn.....

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          #19
          What about specific break in oil?

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            #20
            all really good inputs think im going to break it in the hard way:D
            sigpic



            my build thread:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=232324

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              #21
              Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
              What about specific break in oil?
              Use any 20w50 dino oil with a high ZDDP content. VR1 is easy to find and works.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #22
                Originally posted by JasonC View Post
                I basicly do what nando said, but i run it like that for the first 500 miles.
                I do what nando said, but I still use 4th and 5th and I drive it like that forever.
                paint sucks

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by ak- View Post
                  when the subaru sti's came out, they told you not to take it past 4rpm for the first thousand miles lol. Reason?
                  cya
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by nando View Post
                    cya
                    There's a lot of that in this business.

                    Originally posted by Roysneon
                    $5 shipped?
                    Originally posted by MarkD
                    You are a strange dude, I'n not answering any more posts from you.

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                      #25
                      This

                      Originally posted by nando View Post
                      I disagree COMPLETELY. that's how you break in a camshaft - not a motor.

                      the only thing other than a new cam that would need to be broken in are the rings. you don't break in bearings. Rings will glaze over if broken in improperly - and holding a constant RPM for 30 minutes is a good way to do that.

                      This is what Jim at Metric Mechanic reccomended. He's built a "few" engines over his lifetime I'd say:

                      -start it up, warm up for a few minutes (checking for leaks, oil pressure, etc).
                      -Go for a drive. You want to vary load and RPM (full throttle, lift, full throttle, lift). This loads the rings against the hatched surface of the cylinders to seat them. Don't baby the thing - drive it like you stole it, except for two things:
                      1. Full throttle is fine, but don't stay in high RPMs for long periods of time. That means hard acceleration in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd gear, but not 4th or 5th. Lift your foot completely off the accelerator.
                      2. No trying to top out the car.
                      -As you're driving it, you can increase RPMs more and more each time. 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, redline, etc.
                      -By about 100 miles, the engine should be completely broken in. None of this "drive it like a grandma for 1000 miles" crap. :p
                      -change the oil and filter. Change again at a normal interval. If you built it properly, you won't have crap in your oil anyway. Basically, if there are metal shavings in your oil, something went VERY wrong. Or you didn't clean things when you were putting it together. Changing your oil too early can do damage too - things are dry until the pump starts circulating.

                      I also don't really buy into the myth that synthetics will cause the rings to have problems but that's another tangent.

                      Breaking in a motor is fun. Drive the piss out of it, but just don't stay at 6000rpm for 5 minutes. I accidentally redlined my motor in the 1st block - it accelerated in 1st gear a little faster than I expected. It has 60k on it now. :)

                      I did another motor with the grandma method. It was a dog.

                      http://www.westwerksauto.com

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by ak- View Post
                        When the Subaru STi's came out, they told you not to take it past 4rpm for the first thousand miles lol. Reason?
                        To prevent dumbasses from constantly redlining the motors and blaming Subaru
                        -Alex

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by acolella76 View Post
                          To prevent dumbasses from constantly redlining the motors and blaming Subaru
                          Or breaking ring-lands... wait they do that anyway
                          No E30 Club
                          Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                          Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

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                            #28
                            interesting.

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                              #29
                              lots of different ways to break in a motor, all claiming to be the best. of course, you cant break in a motor twice and compare the results. so who knows? my moms subaru was owned by an old lady (like her) and she claimed when my mom bought it that it never once went past 3500 rpms. it now has 250k on it and it runs very nicely. clutch last to 180k.

                              i've heard of nando's way to do it. but im 100% sure jlevie's way to do it is also effective. if nascar teams do it, you know at the very least, that it is not a wrong way to do it.
                              AWD > RWD

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                                #30
                                I used the website OP posted which is similar to what nando said when I rebuit the s50. Around 10k without problems.

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