I don't know if this falls under 'must-do,' but I think upgrading to euro ellipsoid/smiley headlights is a fairly simple and worthwhile upgrade. I'm getting ready to replace my sealed beams this week I hope.
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Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!
Elva Courier build thread here!
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Originally posted by Janderson View Post
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Originally posted by 325ix View PostDon't solder in a car.
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Originally posted by frankie591 View PostThis topic has been beated to death. I know how to solder, have soldered thousands of joints without a problem. Soldered in my c101 adapter for my 24v swap, no problems. Soldered in my gauges, no problems. Soldered in plenty of grounds for my car. Soldered in adapters for my sealed beam-ellipsoid conversion, no problems. Never hand a solder joint fracture or snap ever.
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PS belt remove then drain rack(enough oil will remain in the rack for lubrication, its just a shitty e30 rack anyway) you dont have to drain the rack but it does decrease steering effort at lower speeds, not trying to get off topic here but it is a worthwhile "mod" its free, and can be reversed for free
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Originally posted by frankie591 View PostDid you have to extend the wires at all? I looked into doing my sunroof switch as well but I didnt think I'd be able to solder the switch to such a short wire.
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Originally posted by SubDad View PostAnd what is the answer to "What is the purpose of removing the power steering belt?"
As for draining the rack, I'm of the opinion you should still leave some fluid in there but squeeze a bit out before plugging it. It's been a few years since fully removing everything and I've had no issues with a partially drained rack.
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And what is the answer to "What is the purpose of removing the power steering belt?" I asked.
Much better steering feel. Going the extra step and removing the reservoir, pump and lines frees up space in the engine bay too.
And maybe I'll figure out how to quote other people's posts.
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