General question about suspension...

[lowsodium]

Redoing the front and rear suspension. Im replacing pretty much every single part that can wear. I have looked at a lot of DIY's and I already have the rear suspension off. But I couldnt find a solid answer for these two questions:

-My main question is what parts should have locktite on them? Anything I dont locktite I was going to use antiseize.

-For various rubber pieces that are being replaced like bushings, do I need to put grease on any of those? Wheel bearing grease ok?

[Cletonius]

Meh, don't loctite everything. That's setting yourself up for a huge headache later. Just torque to spec.

Bushings sometimes come with lube. If they do, use that stuff. Otherwise, dawn will work well to lube em up and slide em in.

[jlevie]

Nothing in the suspension calls for locktite, though where self locking nuts are used the should be replaced.

[lowsodium]

Nothing in the suspension calls for locktite, though where self locking nuts are used the should be replaced.

Got it. I did order all new lock nuts too.

[TobyB]

Don't use petroleum grease on rubber- it can cause it to decay prematurely.

If things aren't pressing into place, yeah, Dawn (or any soap) or a lube designed for rubber.

Yes, KY works just fine.

t

[Simon S]

I'm weird. I loctite most everything I put together - even with lock nuts. Loctite doesn't "freeze" anything - it acts more like a thin rubber coating preventing vibration from slowly backing off fasteners. Overkill with lock nuts? Certainly - but sometimes I'm doing adjustments or removing a locknut that I recently replaced with a new one. If I go to "re-use" that fresh locknut, then loctite gives me some peace of mind.

I also use antisieze on any exposed threads or fastening hardware throughout the entire undercarriage. The antisieze protects from rust. (Bentley tip)

So far - these practices have been like a "gift to myself" anytime I go to work in those areas again. Everything comes apart as it should - without any rust-frozen surprises.

[Bearmw]

I'm also a fan of anti-sneeze and will use Loctite on ocassion but only in medium or low strength for these applications.

[jeffnhiscars]

My bushing lube of choice is cable pulling lube. Its water based, can be bought at HD for cheap and I figure if its safe for electrical cables running 220v 200 amps it should be fine on my suspension. Keep in mind the lube on the CAB's has to dry so they bite the arms once weight is on them (BMW CAB lube dries in 30 minutes). Petroleum or silicone based lubes will not do that.

Not only do I use never seize in the chassis bolts (such as for the lollipops) but you might want to grab a tap and chase those threads first..or risk joining the ranks of those who have snapped a bolt.

[TobyB]

Everything comes apart as it should - without any rust-frozen surprises.

Madison, WI

I grew up in the NE. The first NW car I bought was 10 years old. When I unbolted the
stock muffler and bolted another in place WITH THE FACTORY FASTENERS I nearly cried.

The rust belt lives by different rules. Anti- sieze (or any good waterproof grease) is
a life- saver where most of us see it as an invitation to disaster.

The lock- tite, I don't understand. Most fasteners don't need it.
But if it makes you happy and doesn't cause problems, meh, to each their own.

t