Just the beginning. Initial parts bill

[agent]

where can i get those?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310410119582/

[NeedaE30]

If you want to do it right, take a look at Klaus' build thread for info on the valence mount brackets I bought. The BMW ones are NLA.

where can i get those?

[agent]

If you want to do it right, take a look at Klaus' build thread for info on the valence mount brackets I bought. The BMW ones are NLA.

[NeedaE30]

Buddy took a pic of the car with his terrible camera phone, after we washed and waxed the hell out of it.. its gonna need to be diamond cut or compounded or something because i absolutely can not get the disgusting water spots off the clear coat.. its friggin COVERED in old ass water spots.. ugh



and heres a couple pics of the ends of the valence i was talking about.. you can see at the moment they are held on with very sticky TAPE.. one of the previous owners apparently tried to glue the valence to the bumper and did an absolutely terrible job just globbing it on there you can see it in the pics..




sorry for the pic size.. but its the very ends of the valence that are not connected and i see absolutely no way to connect them unless i drill holes and put body screws in.. it seems as though the entire front valence is only held on by 1 bolt in the middle kind of scary actually.. any suggestions?

[NeedaE30]

I dropped $5K into an S52 swap for my convertible, and had just gone through EVERYTHING in the A/C system converting to R134, blowing icy cold in 110 degrees desert heat, when my daughter R3V'd the car playing Tokyo Drift on the Las Vegas strip.

Enjoy your money pit and don't loan it to teenagers.

damn dude im sorry to hear that But i definitely will not be loaning my money pit to anyone let alone a teenager haha good thing my daughters only 3 and cant beg me to take my car yet lol

[funcrew]

I dropped $5K into an S52 swap for my convertible, and had just gone through EVERYTHING in the A/C system converting to R134, blowing icy cold in 110 degrees desert heat, when my daughter R3V'd the car playing Tokyo Drift on the Las Vegas strip.

Enjoy your money pit and don't loan it to teenagers.

[NeedaE30]

I have an eight year old and a three year old, so yeah I hear you about time issues, but I bought the car to work on it myself, so I'm doing it. You won't long be able to afford it if you don't.

trust me i know lol only had shops do these first initial repairs only because y es i was crunched for time and needed it done asap i will not be bringing the car to anymore shops i'll be doing 99% of the rest of the work my self, maybe not the rust/paint but everything else is all me

contemplating going with a 2.5" cat

[goldenbb]

I have an eight year old and a three year old, so yeah I hear you about time issues, but I bought the car to work on it myself, so I'm doing it. You won't long be able to afford it if you don't.

[10Toes]

Single 2" = 3.14 sq in

Two 1.75" = 4.81 sq in



and single 2.5 = 4.9 sq in

[agent]

on my first e30 i had a y pipe made that went from the stock dual pipes to a single 2" pipe all the way to the tail pipe.. and it ran perfectly and sounded amazing with zero loss of power..

Butt dyno doesn't count.

single 2" is way too small for an M20B25!!!

the *stock* pipes are dual 1 7/8.

you can't have "mostly" dual exhaust. even worse, you're making the cat smaller, which is already a restriction. You'd be way better off leaving all the exhaust stock.

QFT.


Dual 1⅞ = 3¾. A single 2" is roughly *half* the 3¾ used by the stock system. How can that not be more restrictive?

Don't get me wrong... I think it's awesome you're putting some money, time and effort into an E30. I'd bet nando does too. It boils down to talking you out of making a poor choice that could be easily corrected.

[saturnv7890]

I will try to get pics tomorrow... im talking about the very ends of the valence closest to the fender/tire there literallty is nothing to hold it in place at the moment i have it duct taped from the inside so it doesn't hang down while im driving i have not had the time to fix it yet because i want to figure out the proper way to permanently fix it and i've been much more worried about the mechanical aspects of the car so far

Here is another shot of that bolt/screw, sounds like you're missing that.

And if you've got plastic bumpers, that little plastic slide piece also does a little bit to help support the valence on the side there.

If you've got aluminum bumpers, be sure you've got screws holding the plastic cover on.

But whether it's an early or late model, the small lag bolt (painted white here) is always on the end of the valence holding it to the fender

[nando]

single 2" is way too small for an M20B25!!!

the *stock* pipes are dual 1 7/8.

you can't have "mostly" dual exhaust. even worse, you're making the cat smaller, which is already a restriction. You'd be way better off leaving all the exhaust stock.

[NeedaE30]

Yes: trying to second guess a room full of German engineers is usually not a good idea.

on my first e30 i had a y pipe made that went from the stock dual pipes to a single 2" pipe all the way to the tail pipe.. and it ran perfectly and sounded amazing with zero loss of power.. with this car im keeping the dual exhaust its just going to have a slight bottle neck going from dual pipes into a single 2" cat then out of the single 2" cat and back into the dual pipes.. less restriction than my first e30 and will still be mostly dual exhaust, again. i don't see how it could cause any issues

More pictures = better answers


But I know my valence is attached to the fender with a small lag bolt with a 8mm head. Go to HF and get one of those boxes of bolts or boxes of thick screws, and go crazy! Might not be "oem" quality but it's solid for that kind of stuff, and much better than zip ties

Here's what I'm talking about it if you can see. That's the pass side looking from the front of the car, I had pulled the bumper mount to the side (early bumpers) to show how wonderfully zip tied it was there. You can see the 8mm bolt in the middle of the picture which holds the valnce to the fender

I will try to get pics tomorrow... im talking about the very ends of the valence closest to the fender/tire there literallty is nothing to hold it in place at the moment i have it duct taped from the inside so it doesn't hang down while im driving i have not had the time to fix it yet because i want to figure out the proper way to permanently fix it and i've been much more worried about the mechanical aspects of the car so far

[saturnv7890]

affix the ends of the front valance some how can anyone suggest anything???

More pictures = better answers


But I know my valence is attached to the fender with a small lag bolt with a 8mm head. Go to HF and get one of those boxes of bolts or boxes of thick screws, and go crazy! Might not be "oem" quality but it's solid for that kind of stuff, and much better than zip ties

Here's what I'm talking about it if you can see. That's the pass side looking from the front of the car, I had pulled the bumper mount to the side (early bumpers) to show how wonderfully zip tied it was there. You can see the 8mm bolt in the middle of the picture which holds the valnce to the fender

[agent]

i think a single in/out 2" cat will be fine i don't see why it would hinder performance whatsoever?? any opinions?

Yes: trying to second guess a room full of German engineers is usually not a good idea.