Well I'm happy to say after about 3 weeks of ownership.. the car is finally back in my posession. I am absolutely disappointed in the fact that i had to have shops do these initial repairs.. but $800 later(in labor) and i am happy to say she's driving Wafflesing amazing.. I've never had an e30 with such a quiet running m20.. she feels over all tighter and very smooth after the valve adjustment, cooling system overhaul, timing belt, driveshaft etc were the major repairs i paid for in labor.. overcharged a bit yes but it was done in a somewhat timely manner and it was definitely done right cause my god this is the best running e30 i've ever driven lol
When i picked her up from the shop today, her idle was terrible and was nearly stalling nearly stalling. the shop told me i failed inspection for tires, cat leak, and rear shock mounts, no big deal all was planning to replaced anyways.. so once i got the car back home..(after working) i cleaned the following, ICV, throttle body, intake boot, AFM, and fixed a vacuum leak in the little elbow that goes to the throttle body.. and also got rid of the rusty disgusting paper cone ebay air filter and "ghetto" installed an e30 stock airbox. By ghetto i mean its wrapped with electrical tape until i can get 3 more little metal clips.. the car LOVES the stock air box.. she idles right at 600-750 no jumping, wandering idle, no more loss of power during acceleration i am loving it..
at about 2 AM i called it quits for the day after working 9 hours then jumping straight into the car, I also did the following, Installed the interior door handle trim, fixed drivers side inner door handle, removed drivers side door panel, lubricated all moving metal parts inside the door, fix the tweeter pod cover so it actually stays where it should, put all new door panel clips in the door panel, fix the cigarette lighter, fixed passenger side window, mmm tried to remove some nasty old ahesive from an ac schnitzer badge and the 325 badge but had no luck, ill need a heatgun or some paint thinner to get that nasty shit off of there ugh
next on the list
catalytic converter, i think a single in/out 2" cat will be fine i don't see why it would hinder performance whatsoever?? any opinions?
tires
rear shock mounts
affix the ends of the front valance some how can anyone suggest anything???
registration and inspection
install new side markers
clear all the water drains in the car
fix the rust
fix the front seats or buy new ones
Fix the gauge cluster and align it properly and get the check engine light working again
detail the hell out of the car because it needs it badly...BADLY!!!! in and out
paint valve cover and intake manifold
Fix the interior light brackets/frames i hope they are replaceable..
and sooooooo much more
expensive but god damn i miss owning an e30 :)
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If it makes you feel better, over the winter this is what I did:
Falken 912 tires x 4
Treehouse racing control arm bushings
New control arms x2 (lemforder)
New tie-rods
Rebuilt injectors (flow matched/bench tested)
Valve adjustment
Timing belt/waterpump/tensioner
Alternator/power steering/AC belts
Black leather interior
Re-installed stock radio
Removed aftermarket alarm
Antenna gourmet
Euro smileys
Bilstein HD shocks (car has factory m-tech springs that I retained)
173 ECU
New odo gears
Derlin shifter carrier bushings
AKG DSSR
Both Transmission seals
Engine mounts
Transmission mounts
Strut mounts front and back
Glove box handle/lock
Exhaust hangers middle and back
Catback gasket x2 + header to midpipe gasket
CV boots inner and outer
OEM Subframe bushings
OEM Trailing arm bushings
Shifter joint
OEM Differential mount
OEM Diff Gasket
Sway bar links front and back
Oil filter housing plug (revised design from the dealer)
T-fitting for the spray nozzles
New wipers
Shifter boots (the actual boot and the rubber boot below it)
Thermostat
Radiator
Window regulator
Door seal
Trail light seal
Guibo
CSB
New fluids front to back (diff, transmission, engine, coolant, etc).
Time-sert kit for the oil drain plug
Turn signal stalk
Rear sway bar links
Spark plugs (NGK)
Reverse light switch
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Distributor cap
Distributor rotor
Ignition wires
Valve cover vent hose
Coolant hose (from thermostat housing to throttle body)
Tool kit for the trunk
AFM
O2 sensor
Gas funnel rubber surround
New group 49 battery (and proper venting)
All new bulbs all around
Coolant to heatercore outlet hose
I am sure I am forgetting some stuff, the above is all I can recall off the top of my head.Leave a comment:
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Hey bud I tried my best to work with you on a reasonable price.. We both knew it was a little rough and that's why I didn't try to retire on the sale.. Most D-BAGS would Rape n Pillage!! "It's an E30 BRAH" She had NO rot and very very minimal rust.. Most of the things needing attention were obvious and we discussed them. For $1350 I wanted to give you plenty of room for parts n such.. Sorry If you're at all upset.. My $2500 IX has turned into $5500-6000 Quickly! Not to mention the SHOCK when I bought 2 front axels n control arms ouch!! Most of us on here most definitely feel your pain homie... Hope you get to enjoy her soon! ;)
BMW=BrokeMyWallet! hahaha JKLeave a comment:
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First and foremost, when you get the cat replaced, make DAMN sure you get the OEM cat back from the shop.
That right there will get you ~$100-150 back on your expense. If you don't mention it, you can be sure that the shop will be more than happy to "take care of it" for you for free.
There's a guy who posts on here that buys used cats, or you can try www.sellyourcatsdirect.com if you can't find a buyer locally.Leave a comment:
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I'm not sure if you are surprised or venting. Either way, no kidding. You have to spend money to restore/ refresh an 1500 dollar e30.Leave a comment:
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